Posted by Ash
This post may contain affiliate links to products we personally use and love.
I was sitting in my garage recently looking at my collection of tools on the pegboard, and was thinking how much I take them for granted a lot. When working on projects, I don’t think twice about the tools. They are just sitting there waiting for use. I grab one as the task requires, and it gets the job done. So an ode to my under-appreciated tools, I put together a list of the most used tools in my garage.
If you’re a budding DIY’er just getting your feet wet in the home improvement field, you should aim to acquire these tools as the need for them arises. You could get them all at once, but that’s a pretty large investment, and a lot of the tools would probably just sit abandoned longing for usage. Remember, as your skills improve, and projects under your belt accrue, so will your tool collection grow. I didn’t include obvious ones like a hammer, screwdrivers or socket spanners. So without further ado, let’s begin!
My drill is the most used tool in the garage. It’s such a versatile tool. It’s functionality goes far beyond just making holes with drill bits. I use screwdriver bits to work with screws. I use a socket adapter to work with hex bolts. When dealing with odd angles, I can use a right angle adapter to perform 90 degree drilling. With a paddle adapter, I can mix paint or grout. Just recently, I discovered I can pump liquids with a drill pump adapter.
With so many different types of drill adapters out there, my personal collection is barely scratching the market, so I’m always on the lookout for cool ones. My reliance on drill bit adapters encouraged me to even purchase a second drill.
It takes time to swap out drill bits or adapters, and it was starting to become an inconvenience when working with multiple ones at a time. So tasks like drilling pilot holes for screws, and actually screwing in the screws was simplified to just a task of picking up the first drill, then picking up the second drill. I even got extra batteries so that I could replace a dead one immediately. These time saving expenses improved my project efficiency tenfold. So it’s a no-brainer why the handy drill is first on my list.
Some of the projects I used the cordless drill on are constructing the sliding garage shelves, creating a boxing speed bag station, and installing tile backsplash.
I originally purchased my miter saw for cutting the angles needed for a crown molding project I did a few years ago. It turned out that this was just the tip of the iceberg of functionality that the miter saw could do for me. Cutting wood for me in the past meant breaking out the hand saw. I would rest the wood on whatever was nearby, and either stand on the wood or hold it firmly with the other hand. If I had the Jawhorse setup, I would just clamp it down and make the cut.
Now I’m always up for a good workout, but making cuts by hand takes time. The cuts are also notorious for being inaccurate because it’s hard to cut perfectly vertical by hand. The miter saw changed all that. I just put the wood in position, pull the trigger, press down the saw, and a perfect cut is made every time. The miter saw also allowed me to do something I couldn’t do before - quickly prototype ideas.
A few of the projects I used the miter saw on are building the outdoor storage shed, the wagon for mower, and the water-saving rain barrel.
For many years I got by without wood clamps. I did not know what I was missing out on. Then one day I had to borrow a bar clamp from my neighbor to hold down some warped wood while I nailed it in place. I was hooked. I could not have done that task without a clamp, and many projects since then have been aided dramatically with the use of wood clamps.
Clamps come in all types and sizes, from small C clamps to really long bar clamps, and everything in between. I now have a variety of these clamps, including some specialty ones too - 90 degree clamps (when you need to hold two pieces of wood perpendicular to each other, like when building bookshelves) and face clamps (for holding two pieces of wood flush with each other for joining, like when using pocket holes).
Some of the projects I used wood clamps on are building my folding workbench, creating French cleat box shelves, and making an outdoor picnic table.
The table saw has really brought by workmanship up a notch. I bought mine out of necessity when I hit a snag building my storage shed. I needed to make some long precise cuts that were too difficult to accomplish using my circular saw or by hand saw.
Being one of the more costly tools I own, I had delayed in getting a table saw for the longest time. Now that I have one, I have never regretted the investment. I use it for everything from cutting T-11 siding to turning scrap plywood pieces into French cleat shelves. It’s such a versatile and precise tool, even the neighbors (and the neighbors grown children) are coming to me for help! As for accessories, I purchased an awesome featherboard to help guide my cuts (a lot of people usually build their own, but I needed one right away for a project and didn't have the time to make one - plus the purchased one is much more flexible than one I could have built). I also plan on getting some dado blades in the near future to quickly notch wood and cut grooves.
I used the table saw on many of projects including, the outdoor storage shed, the custom mailbox post, and the wagon for mower.
Random orbital sander
When you work with wood, you’ll come to appreciate a good sander. There are lots of different types of sanders out there, but for a DIY’er, you can’t beat a random orbital sander. I purchased mine several years ago to help Eileen refinish an old wooden coffee table. Prior to that, I had a little mouse sander, and that definitely wasn’t up to the task of stripping the whole table down to bare wood.
I was amazed at what a good job the orbital sander did. In no time at all the wood was exposed. I did have to use the mouse sander to get into the small, hard to reach areas, but that’s the purpose of a mouse sander. These days I use the orbital sander for almost every sanding task at hand. I just pick out the appropriate grit sandpaper for the job, fire up the orbital sander, and smooth wood is just moments away.
Some of the projects I used the random orbital sander on are the folding workbench, wagon for mower and outdoor storage shed.
I purchased a plunge router a long time ago to help with cutting dado grooves for building a bookcase. It did an excellent job. Then it sat dormant for a long time until I started experimenting with bits other than straight cut bits. Now I find myself using the plunge router so much at the end of projects. It really turns a good looking project into a WOW project.
Specifically, I’m using round-over bits to make nice beveled edges for my woodworking projects. I built a picnic table the other day and didn’t want people getting splinters from the edges, so I used the round-over bit to make a nice smooth profile.
Most recently, I made a very professional edge for my folding workbench with another version of the bit. I’m excited to try out different types of routing bits in the near future and hone my routing skills.
I used the plunge router when I built a wall mounted bookcase and when I created my folding workbench.
This is another recent addition to my tool collection. I was working on a project the other day and needed to make sure really awkward cuts in a small space. I didn’t have the tools to accomplish this easily, and so an opportunity arose to purchase an oscillating multi-tool. I’ll admit that I didn’t know much about these tools at the time, but I was fairly sure it could accomplish the task at hand.
After some research, I bought a cordless version and it did exactly what I had expected it to do. I didn’t think I would be using it much more after that, but I was wrong. I find myself grabbing this oscillating tool off the wall so many times to do cuts or to perform some sanding when I don’t feel the need to set up a larger tool. It is sort of a hybrid between my compact circular saw and my electric sander.
A few projects I used the oscillating multi-tool on are the folding workbench, the sliding spice rack and an outdoor picnic table.
Wet/Dry Shop Vac
You would think that a shop vac was one of the first tools I got. In actuality, I just purchased my first shop vac about a year ago. I can’t believe it took this long to appreciate the cleaning power of a good shop vac. I had gotten used to saw dust being everywhere, and the floor of my garage looking like a mess.
With the shop vac, now everything is dust-free and my garage floor is always spotless. After every wood cutting session, I start up the shop vac, and in no time at all is the sawdust gone. What I love most about the shop vac is that it picks up anything, including nails and screws. I didn’t know this before (any probably why I only just recently got a shop vac). Now I don’t have to worry about parking the car in the garage and driving over sharp debris left over from past projects. The shop vac makes certain that everything is removed from the floor.
Every garage workshop owner should have a dremel and a host of accessory bits. Not only is it great at precise woodworking cuts, but makes metalworking a feasible task for me.
I originally purchased a dremel to help me cut a hole in the side of my metal computer case (I had bought an incredibly oversized processor cooler that was too large to fit inside the case, so I need to punch a hole for it to stick out). I was a little nervous at first working with metal, and the sparks flying off the fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheels wasn’t helping, but it got the job done to a perfection. In no time was a great looking square hole in this thick metal sheet, and my computer could now happily exhaust its heat.
Since then, I’ve never looked at metal as a barrier for me. In fact, I recently bought some overhead garage shelving, and unfortunately, some of the assembly holes didn’t line up, so some bolts couldn’t fit all the way through. Without the dremel, I may have had to return it. However, I used a tungsten carbide cutter bit and expanded the hole just enough to make it work. The dremel also works great for sharpening my mower blades too.
A couple of projects I used the dremel on when I was fixing up the mower and when I built my folding workbench.
Circular saw (and compact version)
This is a staple tool of most garages. I love waking up in the morning to neighbors whirring their circular saws as they are hard at work making sawdust. It's one of the first power tools I purchased and has seen many hours in the field. I use it for everything from ripping plywood sheets to cutting out lap joint grooves.
Most recently though, I acquired a compact circular saw and it's a dream to use. The downside of a regular circular saw is that it is heavy and bulky, and so hard to use in tight spaces or above your shoulders. They are also very tricky to do small precise cuts. The compact version solves all of this.
It makes small cuts a breeze to handle, and can fit almost anywhere to perform the cuts. I originally purchased the compact circular saw to cut out window holes for my shed. I tried using a regular circular saw, but quickly gave up because it felt really dangerous holding the behemoth over my head. Now I use the compact one almost anytime I need to cut wood.
I love the convenience and precision it gives me. It does have a very limited cutting depth though (little over an inch), and is not as powerful as a regular circular saw. So I still rely on the regular one for certain jobs.
I used the circular saw on many of my projects, including the outdoor storage shed and a custom mailbox post.
These were introduced to me a few years back, and what an amazing tool they are. I didn't know they existed, as I had a regular hand planer, but it didn't get much use. I was never really good at the technique and could not seem to get the blade sharp enough to be useful.
Then my neighbor lent me his power planer one day to help me shave down the tops of my closet doors so they would close properly. In a few quick swipes, I trimmed a small layer off the tops of my doors and they no longer jammed. For years these doors never closed properly, and now they were fixed in minutes.
So I ended up buying my own power planer later on. Not only do all the doors in my home close properly now, but I've used it in so many projects where I needed to level wood that wasn't lining up right.
Finishing nail gun
My finishing nail gun was the most recent tool I acquired for my collection. It was up there price wise along with the table saw, so it was an investment. However, it’s the crowning jewel of my collection. You know you’re an accomplished DIY’er the day you buy your first finishing nail gun.
I don’t use it as much as the drill, per say, but when I do use it, it’s such a convenient and efficient tool. It makes you want to keep going and going and get your project done. I did a lot of research prior to purchasing the nail gun, and eventually settled on a 16-gauge version. This thickness nail would be applicable to a much larger range of projects than other gauge nail guns could do. I originally purchased it to help install some crown molding.
Since then, I have used it for help in so many projects. In just one weeknight, I built a variety of box shelves for the garage using the nail gun (with the help of construction adhesive and scrap plywood). It would have taken me much longer using regular finishing nails and a hammer.
Just the other day too, I was erecting a 6x6 wooden post in concrete and used the nail gun to temporarily attach some wooden supports to keep the post level. I look forward to any opportunity I get to use to my finishing nail gun.
I used the finishing nail gun on a couple of projects lately, including the French cleat box shelves and a shade sail.
I have plenty other tools (like my framing nail gun and jigsaw), but this list of tools shines a light on what your average DIY’er should aim to eventually have in their garage. I do, however, have a wishlist of tools that I would love to add to my collection (things like a reciprocating saw, drill press, and sliding compound saw).
I’ll get those eventually as the need arises for them, and maybe they will have an impact on my list of most used tools. On a final note about purchasing tools, there is nothing wrong with getting them used. A little cosmetic damage is not a big deal, just make sure the tool still functions properly. Also, sometimes you'll have to do a little bit of cleaning to restore used tools to optimal functionality. A year ago, I had purchased a used Paslode framing nail gun on eBay for around $100 (retails new for more than double that). Nails started to jam after a few days of usage. So, I bought a cheap cleaning kit, and after taking apart the tool and cleaning it internally with a special spray from the kit, it now fires nails like a brand new gun.
Anyway, all this tool talk has certainly gotten me in the mood to make some sawdust, so off I go into the garage.
What are your most used tools or most desired tools? I'd love to hear from you!
Eileen always throws awesome parties, thinking of every little detail, from the decorations to the games to the desserts. Yet, once in a while, she enlists a little from from me. She was looking to create a do-it-your-self photo booth for a small backyard party. She had a backdrop and props planned and was looking for me to help her find a software program that would run on her laptop.
To my dismay, I could not find any simple to use programs out there. Most of them you had to pay for, and the free ones were terrible. What seemed like a simple task was turning out to be quite problematic.
So, I decided to just write my own photo booth software. By the end of the day, I churned out an app I dubbed Easy Photo Booth. Eileen was totally impressed, and we've been using the app at parties ever since. Eileen likes to print out the filmstrips and include them with the thank you notes. Guests seem to love that :)
Posted by Ash
This post may contain affiliate links to products we personally use and love.
My version was as simple and straightforward as they come. In front of the backdrop and props that Eileen set up, I placed a laptop (with a web camera) on a small table. The guests would then see themselves on the laptop screen. Easy instructions on how to proceed popped up.
I even setup the software to save the film strip images to DropBox. This allowed me to run a slideshow on the large family room TV of a live photo stream from the photo booth (via a second laptop I had plugged into the TV). This way, other guests not taking pictures got to partake in the photo booth fun.
My photo booth software was a huge hit. It’s now a staple event at our parties, and even our friends/families have started using it for some of their events. So I wanted to make the software easily available for everyone for free.
You can download a PC version of “easy photo booth” software here. I’m sorry, I don’t have a MacOS version of it, but I can port it over to Mac if I get a lot of requests for it.
Here’s a screenshot of the program in action:
Easy Photo Booth also offers an advanced mode if you want to fine tune the functionality:
Here’s what the software shows the guests after taking their pictures:
Film strip images like the picture above are generated from the software. It also saves the images individually in case you wanted to use a snapshot outside of the film strip.
I also added an “overlay” feature, which superimposes foregrounds onto your images. Check it out in action below (I’m hiding behind some tree coverage):
So if you’re looking for free and easy to use photo booth software for your party, you should definitely check out Easy Photo Booth.
This post may contain affiliate links to products we personally use and love.
The Nitty Gritty
For many years I got by without a table saw. I've always just used my trusty handsaw or circular saw. I just didn't have a need for it because our current home at the time was small, so I couldn’t work on as many projects as I wanted to.
This changed once we bought a larger home. The list of projects we wanted to complete on our new home was endless. A larger yard meant things like planter boxes, storage sheds and picnic tables. A more spacious garage meant custom shelving and work benches. The projects went on and on. It was inevitable that the need for a table saw would come up, and it was the construction of the shed that prompted this.
The first couple weeks of working on the shed, I used my handsaw and portable power saws. Then as I got deeper into the project, I ran into a wall. I realized that I needed to make certain long narrow cuts that were nearly impossible to do reliably and consistently with my current means. So it was time for a table saw. I was really excited as I had always wanted one, and this was the perfect opportunity to make the investment.
I researched many table saws online until I settled on one I liked. At the time, the prices ranged from around $250 to thousands of dollars. I opted for the Kobalt KT1050 table saw from Lowes. After a 10% coupon I purchased on eBay for $2, I got the table saw for just under $300 with free delivery. (Here’s a very similar tablesaw on Amazon)
There were two main deciding factors for choosing this saw versus others in the same price range. The first one was the maximum cutting depth at 90 degrees. The KT1015 allowed up to 3.5 inches of height on the blade, which meant I could cut a 4 x 4 with one pass on the blade. Most of the other saws maxed out at 3.125". I could also cut 2 x 4s on the longer side if I needed as well.
The second decision factor was that it came with a folding built in stand. I didn't fully understand the mechanics of its intended operation until watching some YouTube videos. Then I decided this saw was perfect for me. During normal usage, the saw sits on its stand and works like a regular table saw. Then when you're done your cutting for the day, you press a foot lever, raise two handles and the saw tilts vertically on its side and is wheeled away for storage.
Here is the table saw in its wheeled storage position:
In this mode, it looks and maneuvers like a two wheel dolly. Because it stands up vertically, it takes up minimal space against the wall when not in use. This was perfect for my setup as I did not want a permanent spot for the table saw and was hoping to easily pull it out as needed.
In the picture below, the lever with the lock icon transforms the saw into working position.
So the table saw arrived about a week later at my front door. The shed project was being held up due to cuts needed from the saw, so I was eager to set it up and continue construction. It took about an hour to assemble all of the parts and learn operation of all the features. Since it was my first time using a table saw, I did a number of practice cuts with scrap wood to get a feel for the saw and its mechanics. I verified the 3.5” max blade height with a piece of 4 x 4. I tried some angled cuts with the included miter slide. I also ripped some bevel cuts on some 2 x 4s. The cuts were clean and effortless. The dust port sprayed most of the sawdust out and away from me, piling it up in a hill. Once I was comfortable, I did the real cuts I needed for my project and was very happy with the results.
Here is a picture of the side showing the yellow power switch and the blade adjustment wheel. You can raise or lower the blade by spinning the wheel. Also, attached to the wheel is a bevel lever that you can use to adjust the angle of the blade. I found the power switch to be in the perfect location because it is easy to turn the saw off with your knee after a cut. The opposite side of the saw is where the sawdust shoots out.
One thing I was not too happy about with the table saw was the misalignment of the riving knife. The riving knife is a metal splitter that sits just behind the blade. As the saw blade cuts through the wood, the riving knife slides right into the freshly cut groove and forces the wood to remain parallel to the guide fence. It’s a safety feature of table saws that helps to prevent a lot of kickback (when the spinning motion of the blade forces the wood to jerk back at you). The riving knife is supposed to be aligned perfectly with the blade, but mine was not. It actually wasn’t too bad at the beginning, but as I used the saw over the next couple months, the alignment got worse.
The manual did come with instructions on aligning it via some hexagonal screws, but I have just never gotten around to fixing it. I did also read online about a number of people having trouble with the alignment and could not fix it regardless of the adjustment screw settings. Some people have even had to stick washers into the riving knife mounting points to align it manually. Hopefully when I get the time to look into it more, it will work out for me.
In the meantime, when I cut wood, the riving knife either happens to nudge into the cut groove, or I have to place a pre-cut block of scrap wood to force the alignment. I do occasionally just use my finger to manually nudge the riving knife into place with the blade spinning, but this is highly dangerous and I would not recommend to anyone (note to self to stop doing this and fix the alignment).
Another thing that I was not too fond of was aligning the guide fence. This is the guide that runs parallel to the blade that you slide your wood against to ensure your cut is even. The guide has two clamping levers on both ends that you engage to lock it down to the table saw surface.
The problem with this technique is that you have to manually ensure the guide is parallel to the blade. If the guide isn’t parallel (within a close margin of error), then your cut is not going to be straight. Also, your wood will likely get stuck at some point as you slide it through the blade. So both ends of the guide have to be the same distance away from the blade. It’s really not that difficult to do, but can get annoying if you’re making a number of cuts and constantly adjusting the fence.
I’ve gotten use to using a tape measure to ensure both ends of the guide fence are the same distance from the edge of the table. Other people use a speed square to quickly align the fence. The fancier table saws use a rack and pinion system for the guide fence, where you spin a handle to slide the fence left or right. This would be perfect for me if I had a few more hundred dollars to spend on a table saw, but alas that was outside my budget.
Here is a picture showing the guide fence with one of the adjustment levers. There is a useful ruler on the front to help you set the distance from the blade, but I find this not to be always accurate. I tend to rely on my trusty measuring tape.
So the misaligned riving knife and the work needed to setup the guide fence are my only squabbles with the Kobalt KT1015.
It’s a terrific saw for a great value and should satisfy the needs of your typical home DIY’er. The table saw in general is really my most prized item in my tool collection. For a mere $300, it has put me on a whole new level of craftsmanship, and allowed me to accomplish projects that would have been nearly impossible in the past.
Hammering It Home...
Listed below are the projects where I used the Kobalt KT105 table saw. To see detailed steps and pictures, click the project below.
This post may contain affiliate links to products we personally use and love.
The Nitty Gritty
When we moved into our new house, a lot of our cabinets were old oak originals from the 1970s. Our bathroom looked completely dated with an oak vanity. In our kitchen, the previous owners updated the countertops with granite but left the old oak cabinets. The speckled tan and brown granite clashed with the oak. I wanted a cost-effective solution, and at this point, I wasn’t quite sure how to do it.
Here's a picture of our dated kitchen:
Spending time scouring pinterest and googling my options, I stumbled across a blog post where gel stain was used to completely change the look of a bathroom cabinet. The blogger recommended General Finishes Gel Stain and emphasized not to use a different brand. I had some time on my hands and decided to try the gel stain finish on the bathroom vanity. I started small - on the inside of the cabinet door. If I liked the way it turned out, I could go ahead and finish the cabinet. In the back of my mind I was thinking that if it went really well, I could attempt the kitchen.
Below is a before and after of the bathroom vanity. I was thrilled with how it turned out. Between the gel stain on the vanity and the new mirror, this bathroom had left its aging past behind.
Prior to using this gel stain, I had a lot of experience working with regular wood stain, but I had never worked with gel stain. However, it was easy-to-use and yielded exactly the results that I was going for. I was so thrilled with how the bathroom vanity turned out that a few months later, I gel stained all of my kitchen cabinets. It was a huge project, but the results were phenomenal, especially for the money.
To give a little background on gel stain versus regular stain, when using regular wood stain, or thin-liquid stain, it actually penetrates into the wood. Whereas with gel stain, the stain sits on top of the wood. When using regular stain, sometimes the wood unevenly absorbs the color and you end up with some dark splotches. With gel stain, you don’t have this problem because the wood doesn’t absorb the stain. Because it sits on top, it masks the grain of the wood, especially if you pick a dark color.
When using gel stain, even though no uneven spots will show through, you will also lose some of the grain of the wood, depending upon how dark your stain is. This is a matter of preference though. General Finishes in Espresso is very popular color stain on the blogs. It’s so dark that is almost opaque, hiding the grain or any other imperfections.
I thought Espresso would be a little too dark for my kitchen countertops. I went one shade lighter and used Antique Walnut. With this hue, you can still faintly see the grain of the wood, which makes the cabinets look authentic. With gel stain, you don’t wipe off the excess stain the way you wipe off regular stain. It also is a thicker consistency and doesn’t really drip. This makes it easy to stain vertical surfaces.
After loving the bathroom cabinet and doing a little more research, I decided to tackle the kitchen. Here's the after picture. (We also installed backsplash and new appliances, but the difference just in the cabinets was amazing)
I haven’t even told you the best part - when using this gel stain, you don’t need to strip the wood or spend too much time sanding. You do need to do a thorough sanding, just enough to give the gel stain something to stick to.
Here's the back of the cabinet door after a light sanding.
After sanding and thoroughly wiping down the pieces, I used foam brushes to start applying the stain. I preferred using the foam brushes (I used a regular size foam brush and a smaller size for crevices) rather than rags because I was wearing thick chemical gloves, so I was able to get into the nooks and crannies with the foam brush more easily than with rags.
The stain went on easy - just like painting. And again, there’s no need to wipe it off. I did three to four coats, and while it did look streaky during the first and second coat (it is supposed to!), the third coat is magic. One thing you have to be careful of is leaving a build-up in the corners and grooves. These will harden and dry, and then stand out like a sore thumb. After each coat, thoroughly check the grooves and other areas for any build-up.
After three to four coats, the cabinets looked great. You can get by with three coats, but four seals the deal. There were absolutely no streaks or uneven surfaces. As far as color, Antique Walnut is a solid dark brown - like Hershey’s chocolate brown.
As far as smell, the stain isn’t too pleasant on the nose. Make sure to keep your area well-ventilated. I did a lot of the cabinet doors in the garage with the garage doors wide open, but I still prefered having a fan, blowing out the stinky air. (The good news is that the polyurethane sealer is water-based and has little to no smell.)
I should mention too that during this project, we added a cabinet to our kitchen, so we ordered two new, unfinished cabinet doors. The gel stain went on the unfinished doors easily and matched all of the old doors almost perfectly. The only difference is the two new doors looked a tad shinier than the other doors. In hindsight, we would have only used one coat of polyurethane.
Because I put on thick coats, I went through three quarts of the stain between the bathroom and the kitchen. Between the foam brushes, stain, and polyurethenane, the whole project was under $150. You simply cannot beat that! Kitchen renovations are thousands of dollars. If you are willing to put the work in, this is a fantastic solution.
General Finishes Gel Stain is the only gel stain that I’ve worked with, but I heard it’s the only brand to work with. Ash used a different brand of gel stain with a piece of furniture years ago and ended up sanding the stain off. He was extremely skeptical of my desire to use the gel stain but was sold when he saw the bathroom vanity completely madeover. I’ve also read posts from other bloggers who have tried different brands and been disappointed with their results. If you are thinking about using gel stain, definitely go with this brand!
Pictured below is Ash reattaching the cabinet doors.
General Finishes Gel Stain is a little hard to find - you have to buy it a specialty shop or on Amazon. We bought the first quart on Amazon and found the next at a speciality shop a couple hours away, due to poor planning on my part! I did have a funny conversation with the store owner, who asked me what I was using this stain for because it was selling like hotcakes. He also thought I was crazy for driving to another state, so I could finish my cabinets ;)
Looking at the before and after pictures of our kitchen cabinets, the difference is incredible. Don’t get me wrong, it was a lot of work, but it completely modernized our kitchen.
Hammering It Home…
Here are the projects where we’ve used this gel stain. To see detailed steps and pictures, click the project below.
Hi! We're Ash and Eileen, and we are sharing our home project stories with you. From crafty projects to home maintenance to more ambitious DIY endeavors, we hope our stories inspire you to check a few things off your project list! :)