Everyone has been asking for the nail-biting conclusion on how to build a shed, so here it is! If you missed the first part, check out Shed Project Part 1.
The shed has come a long way from some sketches on Post-It notes. I started on the foundation with concrete blocks. Then, I worked my way up through the floor and got the wall frame standing firm. If you haven’t read Part 1, be sure to check it out!
After a short break to work on some side projects around the house, it was time to continue building the shed so I could move the riding mower out of the garage.
How to Build a Shed – Installing the Shed Siding
With the wall frame in place, it was time to install the exterior siding.
I used T1-11 plywood siding for my shed.
It’s a very popular wood paneling siding for sheds. It’s thick enough to be used as the actual wall itself (versus using a thinner plywood sheathing and separate siding).
T1-11 siding (similar to the T&G plywood used for the floor) also has special grooved endings to help the sheets overlap and make a tighter seal at the seams.
Installing the siding for your framed structure does more than just enclose it.
At this stage, the framed walls were still wobbly and were not square with each other. The siding corrects all of this for you.
When you install the first piece of siding onto each wall panel, you use that first piece to align the edge of the wall panel.
Once the wall panel is aligned with the siding, you nail them together and that wall panel is squared and locked in place.
Getting Ahead of Myself
Remember earlier when I said I used L brackets to tightly secure the 4 wall panels together, and it backfired?
Well, prior to installing the siding, my shed wall panels were not wobbly. They were held very firmly in place because of the L brackets at the corners.
It took me a few minutes to figure out why the walls were not budging when I tried to line up the edges with the siding. So I had to undo a lot of the L brackets from the corners to get the siding to install correctly.
Once the siding was up, I reinstalled the L brackets.
As for the window openings, I initially installed siding that covered them up completely.
Once the siding was securely in place, I used a mini circular saw to cut out the opening (I highly recommend a compact circular saw for your tool collection – it’s much more convenient than a full sized circular saw and also very precise).
I made another mistake related to the siding too. The wall studs in the panels are spaced 16” apart (pretty common construction standard).
The 16” spacing starts at one end of the wall panel. Yet, depending on the length of the wall panel, it could end abruptly, forcing you to place the ending stud at an arbitrary distance.
When installing the siding, you always have to start on the end of the panel where the 16” spacing begins (not where it ended prematurely).
Starting on the correct end of the wall panel ensures that every 4 ft wide siding sheet ends on a wall stud.
I luckily did this for the 3 sides of the shed. However, the right side of the shed, I did not start siding on the correct end.
Because of this error, I had several pieces of overlapping siding that did not have a wall stud behind it.
Lack of a wall stud at the seams meant there was no way to tighten the overlap between the siding sheets and left a gap for rain and bugs to come in.
So rather than re-siding that wall panel, I left it as is, and installed some additional wall studs to nail the seams into.
Rain, Rain Go Away
I also had an issue with heavy rain water causing parts of the siding to swell and bulge and pull away from parts of the foundation.
After it had rained, I noticed that there were 2 slight dips in the flooring around the edges of the foundation that caused rain water to puddle and remain there.
In that same area, some of the siding was bulging on the outside. I did some research and found out that unprotected T1-11 siding will start to warp if left exposed to standing water.
So this puddling water was warping my siding.
My solution was to drill a few tiny holes into the center of the floor dips to let the water drain. After the next rainfall, I checked the shed and there was no more water puddles.
My siding has never warped since.
As for the existing bulges in the siding, I could not leave them like that because it would let bugs in. So I used a bar clamp to force the siding back into place, and secured it with a few nails.
Preparing the Roof
With the walls finally up, I could start working on the roof.
This was a big milestone for my shed project as it meant the “drying out” period could start (when water stopped entering the interior, and it could soon become usable space).
Building the Trusses
The roof required a number of trusses to be built.
The trusses are the triangular supports mounted on top of the structure that the roof sheathing is nailed into.
I had to build thirteen individual trusses to span the length of the shed.
Here is what they look like up close:
I followed the directions in the shed plans to construct them.
My miter saw really came in handy for building these, as there were lots of angles to cut.
Where each segment of the truss met another segment, I sandwiched that part between two pieces of plywood and nailed it together securely.
I read a great tip online about constructing the shed trusses. Similar to the framed wall panels, I built them on the floor of the shed. However, this time I use the floor to make a jig for each truss.
I needed each of the trusses to be identical to the next. So I built the first truss carefully on the floor.
Once completed, I screwed scrap blocks of wood in the floor at strategic parts around the truss.
I lifted the finished truss up and a perfect jig remained on the floor to construct the next one. I didn’t have to spend time measuring and aligning the truss segments.
Next, I just placed each segment into the jig and secured them with the sandwiching plywood.
The blocks of wood screwed into the floor meant that the truss would be a perfect replica of the original one.
Attaching the Trusses
Attaching the trusses to the shed structure was not as simple as dropping them onto the top and nailing them.
Because of how they rest on the framed walls, there was not much surface area to work with to nail them down securely.
I did some research online, and a common technique was to just toe-nail the truss to the shed (drive some nails into the truss at an angle to penetrate both the truss and the shed structure).
I tried this, but I was not comfortable with the connection it made. There was too much movement, and it did not feel safe to leave it like that.
The screws were what really did the job. The L brackets really just held the truss in place so it was easy to drive in the screws. I love the TimberLok screws.
Here is a view of the trusses from outside:
Securing the Roof Sheathing
Next came the roof sheathing. I used ½” 4×8 OSB (oriented strand board) plywood for the roof.
The trickiest part of this step was actually getting the plywood sheets onto the trusses. I would recommend getting some help for this part. They are very heavy and large to do by yourself.
I was very eager though to get the roof on, and unfortunately no one was around at the time to help. I went through several failed attempts to get the sheets up.
Eventually the technique that worked for me was to lift each sheet up and in between the trusses. This required quite a bit of strength.
Needless to say, I was very sore afterwards, but it was worth it.
Prior to lifting up the sheets, I had screwed scrap siding into the overhanging part of the trusses, giving the lower trusses an edge.
This ensured that when I dropped the sheets onto the trusses, they would not slide off the bottom and fall to the ground.
One by one, I lifted and nailed each sheet down to the trusses in a staggered pattern provided in the plans.
Here’s a picture looking up into the trusses after the sheathing was laid down:
Installing the Drip Edge
With the roof sheathing nailed down, I installed a drip edge on the overhang.
A drip edge is specially shaped metal flashing that helps keep water on roof away from your structure, and not run down the side.
Here’s a close up of the drip edge:
Laying the Roof Paper
After the sheathing came roofing felt paper. It came in a large roll that I cut into 16 ft segments.
I started at the bottom corner of one side of the roof, and worked my way up. I nailed the paper into the trusses using roofing nails with large plastic caps in the heads.
The caps really gripped the paper without tearing it.
I also liked that the caps were bright orange. It helped me locate the trusses after the paper went on (it’s important to try and keep your weight above the trusses to avoid doing damage to the sheathing).
I covered both sides of the roof with paper and left the apex for last.
There was a little gap between the roofing sheathing at the apex where the two sides of the roof met. I was a little worried about leaks, so I thickened up the felt paper by applying two layers on the apex.
Here’s a picture of the apex with the extra layer of paper (there are some shingles installed already, but I’m getting to that next):
Installing the Shingles
After the felt paper, I moved onto the shingles. I’ve always wanted to work with shingles, so I was really looking forward to this learning opportunity.
After a lot of roofing research, I felt confident to proceed.
Coincidentally, part of our home’s roof was being replaced at this time by a roofing contractor due to a leak, so I talked to the guy for a little bit and he gave me some useful tips and confirmed my plan for the shed’s roof sounded solid.
I bought 25-year asphalt 3-tab charcoal colored shingles from Home Depot.
I estimated I needed about 6 bundles of shingles. They are sold in packs called bundles, and each bundle covers about 33 sq.
The individual shingles are rectangular in shape with 3 tabs (as seen in the picture below):
The black line running across the center of the shingle is a tar line.
Shingles overlap one another, and when the sun heats up the roof, the tar line softens enough to adhere to the overlapping shingles.
Applying Starter Shingles
To begin with the installation on the roof, I first had to apply starter shingles.
Some shingle bundles come with special shingle strips called starters that lack the 3 tabs and are just one continuous strip.
Because shingles always need to overlap each other, the first row of shingles on a roof needs a special starting strip, or else the tabs would rest directly on the felt paper below and expose it to the elements.
My shingle bundles did not have any starters, so I just made my own.
I used a utility knife and cut off the tabs from a few shingles. I cut just below the tar line.
Nailing Down the Shingles
With the starter strips made, I nailed them to the bottom edge of the roof, making sure the tar line was on the bottom.
I made sure to extend the shingles about an inch off the edge of the roof. This overhang is important to prevent water from running off the shingles and down the siding.
I know that the drip edge was installed below to prevent this, but this was just an extra measure of protection.
After the starters were installed, I was ready to install the regular tabbed shingles.
I overlapped the starter strip with the tabs from the other shingles and drove 4 nails per shingle just below the tar line (with two at the ends and two above each tab slit).
I worked my way across the roof to complete the first row. The last shingle in the row needed to be cut, but I left it intact for now, with plans to cut all the excess later.
To start the next row of shingles, I had to offset the first shingle so that the tab slits rested on the middle of a shingle tab below.
If I did not offset the starting shingle, then the tab slits would line up with the slits in the row below and increase the potential of water seeping through the shingles unto the roofing felt.
So using a utility knife, I cut off about 1/6th of the shingle.
I continued this process row-by-row until I got as close as possible to the apex of the roof.
Then I hopped over to the other side of the roof, and repeated the whole process (installed the starters at the bottom, and worked my way up).
Here’s a picture of the shingles so far:
Finishing with a Ridge Cap
The last step to finish installing the shingles was to cover up the apex and form a solid ridge cap.
Once again, I had to cut the shingles to make special pieces for the apex.
Just like the starter strips, I cut off the tabs below the tar line.
Then I nailed each strip across the apex, perpendicular to the rest of the shingles on the sides.
As I worked my way across the apex, I overlapped each strip so each overlapping one covers the tar line on next one.
Here’s a picture of what the apex looked like after installing the shingles:Here’s a picture of the completed roof with the shingles (Eileen just put on a coat of primer on the siding too):
Priming and Painting the Shed
Speaking of primer, Eileen took care of all of the painting – from choosing the color to the last brush stroke.
And, the paint job on the shed was a project by itself.
It took a lot of paint which we greatly underestimated. Here I was thinking how far a gallon of paint went on drywall when repainting a bedroom.
Needless to say, a gallon of primer barely touched the surface of the raw plywood siding. The wood soaked up so much of the paint.
So, we went back and purchased a 5-gallon bucket of Zinnser brand primer. She ended up doing 3 coats of primer.
After the primer, Eileen applied 2 coats of grey exterior paint.
The grey made the shed really pop, but more importantly, served as a thick protective barrier for the siding against water.
So in total, the shed required 5 coats of paint, taking about a week to complete.
It was well worth the time and effort though, and since Eileen did the painting, I could keep working on other shed tasks.
Building the Shed Steps and Ramp
With the painting done, now was a good time to start working on the steps and ramp.
Constructing the Steps
The steps for the small door were pretty easy to build. I bought 3 pre-cut stringers from Home Depot.
These are the support pieces at the sides of the structure that hold up the steps you walk on.
I did have to measure the maximum height from the shed floor to the ground to buy the right length stringer though.
It turned out that 3 step stringers were adequate.
As for the actual steps, I trimmed some 2 x 4s lengthwise with my table saw, and assembled them like a boardwalk.
I used 3 pieces of wood per step, with a little spacing in between.
To connect the stringers to the shed, I used a joist hanger. It’s just a U-shaped metal bracket that’s screwed into the floor joists on the shed, and each stringer rests inside.
As for where the stringers met the ground, there needed to be a solid foundation.
To achieve this, I buried some concrete blocks slightly below ground level and rested the stringers on them.
I also attached some 2 x 4 spacers in between the stringers and fastened them to the concrete using special Tapcon screws.
After I covered up the concrete blocks with dirt, you couldn’t tell they were there.
The concrete blocks gave the steps a really solid feel when you walked on them.
Here’s a picture of the completed steps:
The boardwalk style steps added a nice touch.
Later on, I covered up the fronts of the steps with a thin piece of plywood, and then applied a good deck stain to protect the wood.
Building the Ramp
The ramp construction was similar to the steps in that it used stringers and hidden concrete block supports.
Determining the Ramp Angle
For the ramp, I first had to determine the angle of the slope.
If I made the ramp length too short, the slope would be too steep and cause me problems when driving the mower up. Either the bottom of the mower would hit the top of the ramp, or the mower would not have enough power to climb the slope.
Too long of a ramp would not look that great, and it would take up valuable yard space.
After some research, I decided to go with a 4-foot ramp. It was going to make a slightly steeper than normal ramp, but I was okay with this.
Five foot ramps seemed to be the most common length for a shed ramp. Yet, I wanted to compromise between functionality and aesthetics (be sure to keep reading this section to see how this turned out).
Once I determined my ramp length and angle, I cut 5 stringers out of 2 x 6 wood.
Leveling the Ramp Foundation
The next step was to set and level the concrete blocks for the lower foundation. The leveling took a little bit of time because I had to get each stringer to sit perfectly flat on the blocks while maintaining an even ramp surface.
Attaching Stringers for the Ramp
Once leveled, I worked on attaching the stringers to the shed.
Instead of using joist hangers like I did with the steps, I needed something much stronger to hold the weight of the riding mower.
Based on my research on shed ramp design, I went with a ledger mount. This was just a piece of wood attached to the shed that the stringers rested on for primary support.
To make the ledger, I just bolted a giant 2 x 10 piece of wood to the floor joists.
Near the bottom of the 2 x 10, I bolted on a 2 x 4 for the ramp stringers to rest on.
While the ledger handled the vertical load on the ramp, I didn’t want any lateral movement, so I used two types of fasteners to secure the stringers to the ledger.
The first were some L brackets to keep the stringers in place (just one L bracket per stringer).
The second fasteners used were the 6-inch TimberLok screws I had secured the roof joists with.
Before I used them on the stringers, I wanted to secure the lower portion of the stringers to the concrete blocks first.
The TimberLok screws would really lock the stringers in place, preventing me from adjusting them on concrete blocks.
Building the Ramp Foundation
Onto the foundation now – just like the steps, I used some wooden 2 x 4 spacers between the stringers.
I attached them to the stringers with L brackets and used some more Tapcon screws to secure the spacers to the concrete blocks.
With the ramp foundation set, I ran one TimberLok screw per stringer at an angle through the top middle of the stringer, straight through the 2 x 10 into the shed floor joists.
This made a very tight connection between the stringers and the shed.
There was going to be no lateral movement here. The whole ramp was extremely solid at this point.
Here’s a picture of what it looked like so far:
Here’s a close-up of the stringer foundation where I used a Tapcon screw to secure the spacers to the concrete blocks:
And, here’s a close-up of the stringer/ledger connection where I used an L bracket and a 6-inch TimberLok screw:
Completing and Testing the Ramp
To finish the ramp, I screwed on some sheets of ¾” thick pressure treated plywood, as seen in the picture below (I would also later apply a coat of deck paint to protect it from the weather):
At this point, I was very excited. I could finally drive the mower into the shed.
So I wasted no time and retrieved the mower from the garage. I positioned it carefully at the bottom of the ramp, put it into gear and slowly drove up.
Everything was looking great….until I made it halfway up the ramp.
The mower did not have the power to drive up the ramp at my current speed. I should have gone with the 5-foot ramp design with a more gentle slope.
So I tried a different approach to getting up the ramp. I reversed down the ramp, put the throttle on max, and let go of the brake.
The mower shot up the ramp and successfully made its way into the shed.
This is how I park my mower today.
It took a little bit to get used to, but I have to drive up the ramp at near full speed, with care not to drive into the shed wall at the back.
Installing Windows and Building Doors
At this point, I was almost finished with the shed.
I just had to attach some more trim to the exterior, and install the windows and doors.
Securing the Windows
The windows went on easily. I first used window flashing tape to seal the window frame and the siding.
Then I ran caulk along the window perimeter (on the flashing) and placed the window in the opening.
The caulk held the window in place long enough for me to drive some nails through the window nailing strips.
Then I covered the flashing and nailing strips with trim.
Here’s a picture of one of the completed windows:
Building the Doors
For the door, I custom built the doors following the steps in the shed design plans.
I needed 3 doors for the shed – a single door by the steps, and 2 doors by the ramp.
They were constructed with a rectangular frame of 2 x 4s sandwiched between two sheets of T1-11 siding.
For the trim design, I did some research online and found several patterns to show Eileen.
She has an eye when it comes to design and picked a pattern she liked. It looked fancy but was very easy to cut with my miter saw.
Eileen primed and painted the doors for me to match the shed.
To install the doors, I put them in place and spaced them properly in the door frame with some wooden shims.
These were some seriously heavy doors, and as such, needed some heavy duty hinges (3 per door).
I screwed the hinges onto the door frame and door (making sure to hit the wooden frame inside the door).
Once all the hinges were installed, I removed the shims, and voila – the doors swung open nicely.
To wrap up, I screwed on a door handle and a bolt lock.
Here’s a picture of the double doors installed with my fancy trim work:
Finishing Touches on the Shed
Almost done with the shed now! Time for some final touches.
Since the shed foundation rested on concrete blocks, there were large gaps under the shed where animals could enter and reside.
Because I did not have any future plans to open my shed up for tenants, I wanted to seal up the underneath area.
We have a groundhog problems, and they live under the sheds of our neighbors.
I came up with the cheap and easy solution of using plastic lattice fence.
These came in 2’ x 8’ strips which I cut to fit using my table saw. The lattice was already white and matched the shed trim.
I also wanted some lighting for the shed when it was dark. I opted to use a solar panel motion LED light.
So I mounted the lights in between the door entrances. Then, I positioned the solar panel on the right side of the shed where the most sunlight was available.
Here is a picture of the completed shed. You can see both doors and windows, with the solar panel on the side:
Finally, I completed the shed.
It took about 2 months for me to singlehandedly build the shed, and it cost about $3000.
I did my research online and estimated that a pre-built shed this size and quality would have been more than $7000. Building it myself netted huge savings.
The shed freed up a lot of space in the garage too. The riding mower, push mower, wheelbarrow, gardening tools, and other large items fit in there with lots of room to spare.
We even put all of our summer patio furniture in there during the winter – with space left over.
It was definitely a worthwhile endeavor.
With no construction background, and never having built anything close in capacity to a shed, I impressed my wife, my neighbors, and myself by building a shed.
My work on the shed isn’t over yet though. I still have some interior plans for it.
Down the road, I plan to install shelves and other organizational units. I also want to install another solar motion light inside the shed too.
Additionally, I envision a partial interior wall to provide more wall space for hanging tools (in case the four shed walls weren’t enough), and possibly utilizing the roof rafters for some storage.
The sky’s the limit, and you can bet there will be a blog post to tell you all about it!