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Why You Should Build Your Own Furniture

November 5, 2017 by Paul (Guest Post) 49 Comments

Whether you are an amateur or experienced woodworker, Paul from Woodwork Boss is sharing 9 amazing reasons you should build your own furniture. There are lots of benefits to making your own furniture, and I’m sure you’ll be ready to build by the end of the article. 🙂

Woodworking certainly is a handy skill. From small trinkets to custom cabinets, the things you can create are truly endless.

But did you know that you can build your own furniture? Creating your own furniture, especially with little to no related experience, can seem like a large undertaking.

The truth is, while it can be difficult, depending on your skills and what it is you are building, making your own DIY furniture has many benefits over buying from the store.

1. Anyway You Like It

You’re sifting through catalogs of furniture, unable to find exactly what you want. If only you could combine this feature with that feature, you’d have your dream piece.

Rather than settle for something close to what you had in mind, build the furniture yourself. Nothing will ever match the exact look or functionality you were hoping for.

Not only that, but nobody has a better idea of what you need than you. The advantage of custom furniture is that you can make it look, work, and feel exactly how you need it to. Build your own furniture and enjoy your customized creation.

This shelf was made to perfectly fit four fabric storage bins

2. Hands-on Experience

Do you know how to use a saw? Are you handy with a can of paint primer? You’re going to be.

Part of making your own furniture is the learning experience and gaining practical skills. Even if you aren’t Bob Vila, you can build beautiful, sturdy furniture as well as anyone. You’ll be so impressed with the experience you’ll gain, and you’ll soon be a furniture-making pro.

If you ever run into a rough patch, you can look up tips and tricks online, just as easily as you’re reading this article. When you build your own furniture, you’ll get plenty of experience and the Internet is great at walking you through it.

3. Some Assembly Required

If you’ve ever bought pre-made furniture, then you likely know that it isn’t what you’d consider pre-made, most of the time.

Spending hours assembling a simple bookshelf, studying instructions that seem to be written in a different language, only to find the screws are too short or the holes don’t match up.

If you find yourself thinking, “I could’ve built this myself by now,” you’re probably right. Yet if you make your own DIY furniture, you can put that time and effort into creating something that you love, rather than following someone else’s “premade” instructions.

Below is picture of DIY drawers and drawer handles for a rolling workbench.

Building things yourself oftentimes leads to a lot less frustration assembling premade pieces

4. Long-Lasting

If you ever make a mistake, or your furniture gets old, damaged, or worn-out, the advantage of DIY furniture is that you know how to replace a part or which color to re-finish it, because you’re the one who did it the first time.

You won’t have to guess what part number from which company was used, or whether or not they finished the wood with lacquer number 59 or 67. When making your own furniture, you get to make these decisions when building, and then you can benefit from them later on.

Your homemade desk, chair, cabinet, or anything else, can be used and restored indefinitely. This is such an advantage when you build your own DIY furniture.

5. Durability

If you’ve ever been to discount furniture stores, you probably have felt that much of their furniture, especially in the “reasonably priced” section, feels like you could crack it by leaning on it.

Those vinyl covered hunks of particle board are designed to be mass-produced and appear nice, but not for very long. Soon, the glue starts peeling, the thin cardboard paneling loosens, and the screws start pulling out under the weight of the furniture.

When you build your own furniture, you decide what type of material to use.

In most cases of making your own furniture, real lumber is the way to go, which will certainly be much more durable than anything a retail store can provide you with.

Furniture made from real lumber is much more durable than “wood” from retail stores

6. Affordability

You did it – you finally found a perfect chair. It’s strong, sturdy, the perfect shade of walnut, and has smooth corners, exactly like you wanted.

But then you look at the price tag, and you remember why you considered building your own.

Depending on the type of piece you need, where it’s going to be placed, and what materials you prefer to use, building your own furniture could be free or expensive.

Yet with most furniture, you can buy the wood and materials you need in good condition for significantly less than you would if you bought a premade item. The additional costs would be the tools you need, assuming you don’t have them.

You can also upcycle materials and use scrap wood, which definitely creates savings when making your own furniture.

Additionally, discount tool stores often have great deals on saws, hammers, drills, and any other tools you may need. Not to mention, these are one-time expenses, since you can continue using them when you are making your own furniture in future projects.

7. Bragging Rights

Once you finally build your new chair, you can stick it right in the middle of your living room and show it off to friends and family. Let them know the work you put into it. Your friends will be oogling at your talent.

The bragging is even sweeter if it’s such a nice piece that they don’t believe you built it at first. When you start building your own furniture, you’ll not only impress yourself, but your friends too.

A blank wall turned into built-in bookcases with a window seat

8. Team-Building

You don’t have to undertake this project alone. If you have kids, this could be a great way to introduce them to learning about hard, careful work, as well as teaching safety.

Or, if you can get a friend who wants a fun weekend project, order some pizzas, play some good tunes, and spend a constructive day with your pals, instead of sitting in front of a TV all day. Making your own furniture is definitely good bonding time, and you get to share the experience with someone else when you build your own furniture.

9. Carry Over Skills

Aside from simply the experience of building your own furniture, a task like this allows you to retain knowledge that can be applied to over fields. You’ll have a better understanding of construction and building processes when making your own furniture.

If your wall gets scuffed, you already know the process of repainting. If your door frame gets chipped or cracked, you already have the knowledge of sanding, using wood putty, and re-finishing.

You friend’s car upholstery starts coming loose and you’re able to help, because you already did it once on your homemade chair. You’ll be handy with saws and power tools from making your own furniture – that’s another set of skills that will come handy in your life.

Learning to use more tools adds to your experience when you build your own furniture

These are skills that build upon each other, and you won’t gain them until you start building your own furniture.

From bragging rights to affordability to customized creations, there are definite perks of building your own furniture. Next time you’re stuck assembling something that doesn’t seem to go together or looking through catalogs for the perfect piece, definitely consider making your own furniture.

Paul is an avid woodworker and the editor-in-chief of the website Woodworkboss.com. Via his site, he hopes to inspire fellow woodworking enthusiasts while sharing tips and ideas for woodworkers who are starting their crafting journey.

10 Day Living Room and Dining Room Makeover Reveal

September 3, 2017 by Eileen 52 Comments

Do you ever watch those HGTV shows just wishing they would come and make over your home? Well, have I got a story for you.

My parents recently went on vacation, and my sister decided to renovate their home while they were gone – in just 10 days. I’m talking ripping up the carpet, peeling the layers and layers of wall paper from the 1970s, painting the walls, and installing new flooring.

My sister’s timeline was a little crazy, so she had to have a little help from us – but the results were phenomenal.

When my parents returned, they were completely shocked. Of course, they loved it and were so happy to not have to tackle these projects themselves.

So, here are the before and afters, along with the details, of the 10-day home renovation challenge.

First up is the living room makeover. Below is a before picture, showing the view looking in from the hallway.

Such a difference, right?! Here’s another view of the living room before and after pictures.

Last, here are befores and afters of the dining room.

The difference is pretty incredible! In just 10 days, my sister, along with some help, was able to rip down layers and layers of wall paper, fix up the walls, paint the walls, rip up carpeting, and lay down new flooring during this dining and living room makeover project.

Preparing for the Renovation

The living room and dining room renovation was a complete surprise to my parents. After they left for their vacation, the first order of business was to prepare the rooms.

First, we took pictures of all of the photo arrangements and knick-knacks, so they could be placed back properly. This is a good idea even if you are working in your own house. This way you can put everything back exactly the way you had it.

Then, we moved most of the furniture out of the rooms. Any furniture that was too heavy got moved to the center of the room. It would also be a good idea to cover it with plastic.

Next, we removed the outlet and light switch covers – which were later replaced with clean white covers, as opposed to old gold ones. Small changes like this have a huge impact.

Since the plan was to first remove the wallpaper and then remove the old carpeting, the floors didn’t need to be covered.

It was then time to start ripping down the layers of wallpaper.

Removing the Wallpaper

The first, and most grueling task of the living room makeover project, was undoubtedly removing the wallpaper. The first layer came off in huge sheets, which was unfortunately not indicative of how the rest of the wallpaper peeling went.

It would have been magical if that was the only layer of wallpaper. However, underneath that top layer was more wallpaper – uneven, stubborn wallpaper.

Removing Stubborn Wallpaper

To remove the stubborn wallpaper, it was necessary to use a steamer. At first, we used a portable hand steamer, but it was taking too long. To make matters worse, the handheld steamer was cordless, so we kept having to take breaks to charge it.

Productivity was so slow that we looked into renting a bigger one from Home Depot. It turns out that it was cheaper just to buy a steamer than rent it.

And, it was totally worth it.

The wall steamer was much better than the portable one, and it came with an enclosure to confine the steam to the wall, which greatly improved the efficiency of removing the wallpaper.

As we were steaming, we used a paint scraper to get underneath the wallpaper and peel it off. Use a flat blade though, to avoid damaging the wall.

After all of the wallpaper was removed, we found any holes and cracks and filled them with dry wall compound.

Once the compound was dry, we went over the walls with the sander to smooth everything done and get the walls ready for painting.

As you can imagine, the sanding made a huge mess. So make sure you have things covered or completely moved.

Throughout the dining room and living room makeover, we used the Shop Vac to clean up all of the debris. It was great at getting the fine pieces (and came in handy later with the carpet removal too).

Removing the Carpet

Removing the wallpaper was eating up more of the timeline than we thought. How awful would it be if we hadn’t finished the dining and living room makeover before my parents came home?!

On top of that, trash day was coming, so we were anxious to get rid of all the garbage that we could. We didn’t want to leave heaps of trash for my parents.

So, Ash started removing the carpet while my sisters continued on with the wallpaper. Luck was on our side with the trash company too, as they took carpet in 4ft rolls. That greatly helped.

This old pink carpet that covered both the living and dining room had seen better days, and we couldn’t wait to get rid of it. Aside from the dust, the carpet removal wasn’t too bad.

Ash started with a corner and pulled it up with some vice grips. While pulling, he also started cutting it into strips to help with cleanup afterward.

The carpet was not too dusty, but the padding underneath was full of dust. So a dust mask was critical in the process. The padding was nailed down in numerous areas, so care had to be taken to remove all the nails.

Also, there were tacking strips along the perimeter of the rooms that needed removal as well. They were full of rusty nails so extra care was taken when removing them.

Ash found that a pry bar worked best to remove the tacking strips. After all the carpet, padding, tacking strips and nails were removed, the Shop Vac was used to give the floor a good cleaning.

Here is the dining room, minus the old carpeting.

Painting the Walls

While Ash was removing carpeting and my sisters were working on the walls, it was time to start thinking about painting. After all, the perfect color is one of the best things about room makeovers.

Choosing Paint Colors

So, my sweet little helper and I took a trip to our local paint store. We love Benjamin Moore paint – the odor is minimal and their colors are simply the best. My little guy loves our outings, especially loves the paint store – because if he’s a sweetheart, I let him choose a paint chip to take home 🙂

We brought a sample of the new floor along to the store, to hold up to various paint colors and help us determine the colors for the dining and living room makeover.

Not only are Benjamin Moore paint chips 100% representative of the color your wall will be (which unfortunately isn’t the case with all other paints) but the quality and sheen of their paint is amazing. We tend to go with the Natura collection because this puts the least amount of chemicals into the air.

If you think choosing paint colors is hard, imagine choosing them for someone else.

As if I’m not indecisive enough, I went back and forth trying to decide what colors to choose. The dining room had a chair rail, so I needed one color for the top and one for the bottom. The living room needed just one color, and the hallway didn’t need paint – as it was freshly painted a few summers ago.

Lucky for me, my parents love the color green, so I just needed to pick a shade. I went with Benjamin Moore Feather Green, which had more of a white base than a gray base. For the second color, I chose White Dove, which is my favorite of the whites that Benjamin Moore makes.

Priming and Painting the Walls

Once the wallpaper was finally down and the walls were patched, sanded, and ready to go, it was time to start painting. This was quite a milestone in the dining and living room makeover project!

So, after taping off the ceilings and the chair rail, my sisters painted a nice thick layer of primer.

After the primer in the living room and dining room, it was time to move onto painting the walls green. We did two coats of the green.
With the dining room chair rail, we decided to paint the lower portion White Dove and the higher portion Feather Green. It turned out really pretty.

The chair rail and tape didn’t leave the neatest edge, so in hindsight, we really should have pulled it off and then put it back.

Feather green already brightened the room so much. The dining room and living room makeover project was well on its way, with just a few days to spare.

Installing Laminate Flooring

To keep everything moving along during the dining and living room makeover, Ash started to work on the flooring in the dining room, while my sister finished painting the living room.

Ash loved working on the flooring – he found it really fun to work on. And, I love the way the laminate flooring turned out. It was so much prettier than carpet, and the white baseboard was the perfect touch. Now I’m thinking about where we can incorporate laminate flooring in our house 🙂

Laying Down the Laminate Flooring

As far as installation, the laminate was pretty easy to install. The pieces fit together like a large jigsaw puzzle.

Each alternating row was offset by half the length of a full piece. Not only did this add to the visual appeal, but it was essential for a rigid floor structure.

The laminate flooring tools (pull bars and tapping blocks) were heavily relied upon to get the pieces in place. 1/8″ spacers were also used along the perimeter of the wall to enforce a gap to allow for floor expansion during different times of the year.

The gaps were going to be covered by baseboard trim later on. Ash will have a full post on installing the laminate flooring soon. 🙂

Tackling the Tiles in the Hallway

The hallway tiles proved to be very labor intensive. The problem was that there was another layer of plywood sheathing nailed into the subfloor, followed by the vinyl tiles.

The plywood sheathing was there to raise the height of the floor so the tiles would be even with other room surfaces.

Unfortunately, it was a huge pain removing this second layer of plywood. It did not come up very easy. Yet, we endured and got all the plywood and tiles removed.

Installing Baseboard

Baseboard was the easiest part of this dining and living room makeover. It was just a matter of measuring all the walls that needed baseboard, and buying the appropriate amount from Home Depot.

We pre-painted all the baseboard pieces. Once they were dry, Ash used the miter saw to cut 45 degree angles on the ends of the pieces. These angled cuts would create scarf joints between the baseboard segments.

Scarf joints are ideal for trim because they hide the seam pretty well.

Finally, Ash attached the baseboard to the walls with some construction adhesive and a few taps from the finishing nail gun.

Cleaning Up and Organizing

From start to finish, the Shop Vac came in handy the whole project – from vacuuming up the dust and wallpaper scraps, to any nails left behind from the carpet removal.

After all of the work was done, we went over everything again with the Shop Vac. Then, we used a wet swiffer to get up more lingering dust. There was dust everywhere – so when preparing for the makeover, definitely move (or cover) everything really well.

While my sister and Ash were hard at work finishing up, I was looking for a way to organize the floor samples and paint colors for my parents.

Rather than toss them in an envelope, I created home improvement printables and placed them in a binder with the samples. This way, they knew exactly what paint color, floor, baseboard, etc that we used.

Get Your Free Home Improvement Printables

If you are thinking about a home renovation project, or are just trying to keep your projects organized, you can get your free home improvement printables below. They will undoubtedly help you keep track of your paint colors, cabinet choices, home repairs, and more.

The Moment of Truth

When my parents returned from their vacation, they were so amazed at their home. They loved the flooring, the walls, and they were happy to see that old carpet gone.

Moreover, they were ecstatic to come home to a completely updated living room and dining room. My mom has been enjoying going around with the swiffer, instead of the vaccum in the mornings. She had fun gathering braided rugs that my grandma made to compliment the new flooring. And, my dad said he feels like he wakes up in a dream 🙂 Isn’t that a sweet compliment?!

So, if you find yourself watching one of those HGTV shows wishing for your own renovation, know that you can do it yourself. Now is as good a time as ever to start working on those tasks.

Removing wallpaper, ripping up carpet, painting walls, and laying down new flooring are all things you can tackle yourself. And, you’ll be so happy that you did.

How to Install Pegboard for Craft Room Organization

July 5, 2017 by Ash 82 Comments

How to Install Giant Pegboard for Craft Room Organization: In this post, you’ll learn how to install an oversized pegboard organizer on your wall. This DIY pegboard display is perfect for craft room, office, or even kitchen organization.

Anything you could ever want, for any project, resides in Eileen’s craft room.

Ribbon, paint, pipe cleaners, card stock, felt, sewing materials, hot glue. Not to mention all of the kids crafts and holiday materials.

However, there was no room for any kind of craft room organization and storage. I usually found Eileen behind a mountain of fabric or sitting amidst a pile of felt scraps. The closet was packed with those plastic drawer organizers filled to the brim.

With hopes to organize, and perhaps even empty the closet, Eileen wanted to add storage to the walls. It was a great idea because there was tons of wall space that was barely being utilized.

She had her office desk and computer in that corner, so she envisioned being able to spin around in her chair and easily access any of her materials.

Her craft room organization and storage vision included a giant pegboard, shelving, and wall-mounted cubby storage.

Creating Craft Room Organization and Storage

In designing a plan, Eileen was thinking that she would have oversized pegboard continue into the corner, using hooks and mini shelves to hang up craft supplies that she used a lot – scissors, tape, paints, brushes, etc.

Then, above that she would have two long shelves that would hold a bunch of fabric storage bins. She also has a large supply of those fabric storage bins, as they are all over our house. She keeps holiday decorations in them, learning activities for our son, party supplies, and a lot more. The more bins she could fit on these shelves, the better.

Last, and the part she was most excited about was the wall-mounted cubby storage. These would be little cubbies that could hold all kinds of things – bins of felt scraps, stacks of card stock, envelopes, and little bins of office supplies.

Time for me to get to work on a design for all of this craft room organization and storage.

Making a Design

I took Eileen’s ideas to the drawing pad and sketched out some 3D designs in TinkerCAD. Here is what I came up with for her craft room organization and storage:

The black box is the filing cabinet. The aqua panels on the wall are the diy pegboard display. The semi transparent block in the center represents the dimensions of Eileen’s desk chair.

The craft room organization and storage project was going to be fairly easily to get done. The pegboard and shelving was straight forward. The only slightly challenging piece was the cubby storage. I had never made cubbies before, but it didn’t seem too hard.

Must-See Before & After

Here are a few before pictures of the mess. The first one is of the corner that is now transformed. The second is a messy closet filled with plastic storage drawers filled with crafting materials (that were then emptied onto the storage cubbies, shelves, and pegboard.)

And, here was the final result.

The craft room organization and storage project truly turned a messy, wasted corner of space into a craft room dream.

All of this craft room organization and storage completely emptied 5 bins/dressers/plastic storage containers worth of materials. Crazy, right?!

Planning

To embark on this craft corner storage and organization project, I started off with a quick trip to Home Depot.

The craft room organization and storage DIY project was very modular.

There were three unique pieces (giant pegboard, shelving and cubbies) that could be worked on and installed independent of each other. In this post, I’ll cover how to install the giant pegboard.

How to Install the Pegboard

I chose to work on the pegboard panels first. They were the simplest to get done.

The store-bought pegboard needs a backing frame to ensure there’s enough space for pegboard hooks to be inserted.

Most people usually use furring strips for the frame. Since I didn’t have any, I started by cutting some 1” backing strips from scrap wood with my table saw.

Here’s a picture of my self-made furring strips:

To assemble and join the strips into a frame, I used pocket holes. Here’s a picture showing my Kreg pocket hole jig in action:

Here’s the framing coming together.

When the pegboard frame was completed, I secured it to some wall studs using deck screws.

I later built another smaller frame on the right to make the pegboard paneling hug the corner.

It was now time to paint the pegboard. Eileen picked out a crafty color from Benjamin Moore. She and our son had a fun trip to the paint store, where our son picked out his favorite color paint chip and got to bring it home 🙂

Prior to rolling on the paint they picked, I laid out the pegboard on some 2x4s in the driveway. Then I rolled on two coats of paint.

The pegboard was ready to attach to the mounted frame. Here’s a picture showing the final result of the craft room pegboard:

To secure the giant pegboard to the frame, I used pocket hole screws. They were perfect because they had built in washers and would prevent the pegboard from ripping through the screw heads under load.

Here’s a picture showing one of the pocket hole screws:

The first part of the craft room organization and storage project was checked off my list.

Pegboard Organization Tips

Below is a picture of how Eileen organized it all. The craft room pegboard completely emptied out her plastic desk organizer and more.

On the pegboard, Eileen used a collection of various pegboard hooks that I had, as well as some awesome little plastic buckets from Dollar Tree (3 for a $1). I did order some fancy pegboard organizers from Amazon, but I kept them for my own pegboard since she was happy with her organizational system.

I have to admit – I have already benefited from the pegboard organization. When making a few measurements upstairs, I easily grabbed her measuring tape. The scissors are found easily without digging through a drawer – and I just used the fishing line to make a kite with our son – without having to ask for where they were or dig through storage containers.

Here is the final craft corner – with the pegboard, the DIY cubby shelf, and the wall shelves.

Here’s another shot after some creative uses of pegboard hooks:

And most impressively…

With the amount of new storage created, Eileen was able to empty out tons of storage containers. She emptied three storage towers, one cart, and one dresser. She completed underestimated the amount of space all of the new craft room storage gave her.

Don’t forget to download our free plans for this craft room organization and storage project.

The new craft room storage made a huge impact in Eileen’s craft room and office. She emptied out so much space in the closet, which can now be a linen closet.

All of that wall space that was wasted before was now holding an incredible amount of craft and office supplies. Her craft room organization and storage problem was solved. And, all of her craft materials were easily accessible, rather than shoved in bins and bins in the closet.

Eileen’s craft room and office is her absolute favorite place in our home, as she has floor-to-ceiling bookshelves with a window seat on one side and a highly organized craft corner on the other side. It’s truly her dream room.

It was well worth the time and investment.

The Secret to Organizing Home Projects & Repairs – Free Printables

June 29, 2017 by Eileen 48 Comments

While in the paint store the other day, a lady looked at my samples and said to me with a smile, “Choosing a paint color is more difficult than buying a car.”

I laughed, looking down at my dozens of shades of blues and greens.

I was sitting in the paint store with my toddler (who behaves perfectly when he gets to choose his own paint chip at the end) looking through samples of whites and greens, in an attempt to choose colors for my parents’ living and dining room.

Also in hand, I had a sample of the flooring we were putting in, and I was trying to envision the white chair rail running through the dining room. It was a little overwhelming!

You see, my sister decided to redo my parents living room and dining room while they were on vacation, so we were making all of the remodeling choices, leaving my desk looking like this:

Rather than dumping all the paint chips and floor samples in a drawer, I wanted to have everything organized for my parents – so they could see the exact paint colors and flooring sample we used, for their own reference. Thus, my DIY home improvement printables were born!

Wouldn’t it be nice to have a place to store your paint chips and room samples along with notes on the work you did or had done in your home? Heck yeah! And, I needed this organization for my own home too.

Keep Your Home Improvement Efforts Organized

I created these free DIY home improvement printables that I used for my parents house as well as my home – to store all of the home improvement updates in one, easy-to-access place.

Not only will the home improvement printables keep a reference of paint colors and floor samples, but it serves as a record for all of your house projects and repairs. I divided the worksheets into three categories – interior, exterior, and appliances.

You can keep a log of the home improvement work you or your contractor completed by room (including walls, floors, cabinets, countertops). This serves as your paint color reference too.

You can keep your exterior work organized (tree work, siding, roof, etc), and appliance maintenance (including when they were serviced/replaced and contractor information). The DIY home improvement printables keep all of these records organized in one place.

Also, you can download all of the worksheets in one download, or you can download just the pages you need, but these printables will have you organized in no time!

Simply hole punch them or put the printables in a sheet protector and place them in a binder, according to section. You can also keep contractor receipts and records, stored behind the log of the work done.

No more digging through file folders looking for the contractor that installed your fans. No more searching the garage for that leftover can of paint that may or may not exist.

And, the best part?

Down the road, when you go to put your house on the market, you can leave out the bound home improvement printables for your showings. It will show prospective buyers that you took great care of your home and are leaving them with information that goes above and beyond.

With all of the time you spend updating your home – choosing paint colors, installing new flooring, researching contractors, you owe it to yourself to keep all of this home improvement information in one easy-to-find place.

All of your home improvement updates, records, and files can be placed in this binder, in an organized, seamless fashion.

How to Build Pull-Out Drawers & Custom Handles

June 1, 2017 by Ash 30 Comments

With my garage getting a little disorganized again, I’ve been working on building rolling worktables. As I was working on the custom-built drawers, and thought I would share my process. At some point as a DIYer, you might come across the need to make some drawers yourself – and it’s really rather simple.

If you are wondering how to make DIY drawers, there are many ways you can do it. In the end, it’s just a rectangular box with a floor and a handle. Among the many techniques out there to accomplish this, the three top methods that come to mind are dovetail joints, pocket holes and construction adhesive with nails.

How to Make DIY Drawers – Adhesive and Nail Method

The glue and nail technique has come to be my favorite. It’s super simple and very strong.

Basically, I cut the four box sides (usually ¾” boards), apply construction adhesive to the ends, and secure in place with finishing nails.

Then I use more glue and nails for a ¼” plywood bottom. I have actually built a number of generic boxes in the past with this method, but hung them on the wall with French cleats (see my project about finding hidden storage in your garage).

Turning one of these basic boxes into a drawer just requires a handle, and possibly some sliding hardware, depending on how you are going to use the drawer.

Some drawer designs also benefit from a decorative faceplate. The faceplate will additionally hide any visible joints made from the box design.

How to Make DIY Drawers – Video Walkthrough

I outline all of the steps that I took in this tutorial on how to make DIY drawers, but if you would like to see a video walkthrough, here is one which shows the whole DIY drawer-making process.

Speed Things Up with a Nail Gun

I happen to own a 16 gauge finishing nail gun, so drawer construction with glue and nails is extremely fast for me.

However, I started off with just nails and a hammer and got the job done just as well (albeit a little more time taken).

If you have the budget for a finishing nail gun though, you should seriously consider getting one for your DIY projects. Target the 16 gauge ones though. I think they are the most versatile.

Higher gauge ones are really only practical for applying trim. Lower gauge ones similarly also limit the scope of projects you can work on.

I find that 16 gauge strikes a fine balance between the two ends of the gauge spectrum. I use it to install most types of trim, while being able to quickly prototype ideas and fabricate projects.

So unless you’re a professional contractor who needs all the different gauge guns, as a DIYer you can compromise with a single 16 gauge gun.

Here’s a picture of my nail gun (with the 1.5″ finishing nails used for the drawers):

Materials for DIY Drawers

The current garage storage project requires me to make a lot of drawers. The key to getting it all done is efficiency. On my workspace, I just have the minimum amount of tools necessary to get the job completed. With my setup, I can bang out a drawer in under 10 minutes.

Here’s the list if item needed:

4 pieces of ¾” boards (for the drawer sides)
1 piece of ¼” plywood (for the drawer bottom)
1 drawer handle with screws
C clamp for installing handle
Long bar clamp for holding boards in place
Caulk gun loaded with construction adhesive
Square edge (for 90 degree joints)
Finishing nail gun (or a hammer and finishing nails)

Here’s a picture of my workspace, ready to build a drawer:

Assembling and Squaring the Sides

To explain how to make DIY drawers, I first placed the drawer boards roughly in position for speedy assembly. The next step is to apply construction adhesive to the board edges, as seen below:

The wood is then pressed together to form the box design. I use the square edge on the inside of the corners to make sure the angles are 90 degrees. Then I use the bar clamp to hold everything firmly in place.

It’s useful to keep some paper towels handy as the wood glue with squeeze out the sides of the joints and get messy. I also like wearing plastic disposable gloves so my hands don’t get covered in glue.

Here is the box clamped together and squared, ready for nailing:

Nailing the Boards Together

Here I am using the finishing nail gun to secure the pieces together:

My drawer height is about 3” for this particular project, so 3 nails at each joint would suffice. Deeper drawers will require more nails spaced out evenly.

You don’t need to go crazy with the nails though. Contrary to what you may think, a majority of this drawer strength comes from the construction adhesive and not the nails.

The nails do add some strength, but are mostly there to hold the drawer pieces tightly in place while the adhesive dries.

Here is the glued and nailed box design (with just the 16 gauge nails and construction adhesive, it’s already pretty sturdy):

Practice with your Nail Gun First

Here’s a word of caution if using the nail gun. If you’re relatively new to them, you may want to practice on some scrap wood first before shooting some nails into your drawers.

With ¾” drawer sides, you don’t have too much room for error and will need to fire the nails as straight as possible. This may just come with experience, so practice makes perfect.

Even I still fire some nails accidentally at a slight angle and the nail ends up protruding out the side. When this happens, it’s annoying because you will have to either break off the protruding end or pull it out completely. Then decide if you need to fire a replacement nail.

Note that if your wood is too hard, or if you’re firing into knots, your nails can still poke out the sides, regardless of how perfectly straight you fired it.

If this is the case, you can just use a hammer and nails (or reconsider the gauge of your nail gun).

Attaching the Drawer Floor

So the next step is to apply more glue in preparation for the drawer floor:

Be careful what side of the drawer you decide to install the floor on.

You want to use the side that’s perfectly flat so the floor is flush against the drawer. If your ¾” boards aren’t all exactly the same heights, then one side of the drawer will not be all flat.

Ensure you’re using the flattest side my flipping the drawer over and using the side that was resting against your flat workspace.

Once the glue is applied, press the plywood floor firmly against the box and use your fingers to align the edges. Then fire some nails to finish it off. I usually nail the corners first, and then put in some evenly spaced ones along the box perimeter.

If your nail gun has a depth setting, you will want to use a fairly low setting for the drawer floor. Since it’s only ¼” plywood, you risk firing the nail all the way through if using too deep of a nail depth.

Finally, try your best again to fire the nails as straight as possible (or else you’ll be pulling out those nails that poke out the sides).

Here I am nailing the floor on:

Save Money with Custom-Made Handles

Now for the handles. If you aren’t going to make that many drawers, you can just purchase them at the store. However, if you’re working on a large project requiring lots of drawers, you can pocket some nice savings by making your own handles.

There is a lot of handle design inspiration out there on the internet.

Personally, I prefer a super simple L shaped handle cut from 2x4s with my table saw. A single 8ft piece of 2×4 will yield around 30 six inch handles.

With the garage storage project I’m working on, I need 48 handles. My homemade handle costed around 15 cent to make. Considering handles in the store cost a couple dollars, that’s some significant savings!

Here’s a picture of one of my custom made handles:

How to Make DIY Drawer Handles

To make the handles, I rip a piece of 2×4 down the middle with the table saw, dividing it into roughly 2x2s. Then I set the cut length and depth to ¾” and again rip the 2x2s lengthwise. This cut a slot halfway into the wood.

Rotating the wood 90 degrees and ripping again made a perpendicular cut to the first slot.

The notched wood fell out leaving an L shaped piece. Then I just used a miter saw to quickly cut the 8ft piece into smaller 6 inch pieces.

The best part of using 2x4s for the handle is that the edges are already bevelled for you. No need for sanding or special routing to create smooth edges.

Attaching the DIY Drawer Handle

With the drawer box completed, you have some options as what to do next.

You could just leave the box as is and call it a day. After all, it’s a nice sturdy box with limitless potential. Depending on your project, you may want to install a faceplate on the front, and possibly some sliding hardware.

Then comes the final task of attaching a handle. For my current project, I didn’t need a fancy faceplate or even sliding hardware. So I jumped straight ahead to attaching the handle.

For handle installation, I measured and marked an offset so the handle would be perfectly centered. Then I used a C clamp to hold the handle firmly in place while I pre-drilled some holes and inserted two screws.

Here’s a picture showing handle installation:

I didn’t use wood glue for the handle. I definitely could have, but the screws already make a very sturdy connection.

Plus, I like to leave handles flexible in case I want to replace them in the future. Glue would make this difficult.

The Finished DIY Drawer with Homemade Handles

The drawer is now completed! Here is the final product:

Here’s a close-up showcasing the handle:

Finally, here’s a sneak peak of my awesome garage storage project (to be posted in the near future), showing the DIY drawers in action:

Time & Cost of Making DIY Drawers and Handles

With a nail gun, these drawers should take under 1o minutes to make. If you’re using nails and a hammer, then add on a few extra minutes.

These drawers are also very cheap to make. If you have some scrap wood, then they are free! If not, then I estimate around $2 per drawer (assuming you buy some wood in bulk to make a batch of drawers).

Also, if purchasing wood, I recommend maximizing the yield of drawer cuts as much as possible. This will give you be lowest prices per drawer. For example, I purchased some 4×8 sheets of 1/4″ plywood from Home Depot (to make the drawer bottoms).

To keep costs as low as possible, I calculated ahead of time how many drawer bottoms I could possibly fit on the 4×8 sheet. Then I factored in how I can get the 4×8 sheet cut at Home Depot to fit in my SUV (it was too large to transport whole sheet intact).

In the end, I was able to provide Home Depot with some simple cutting measurements and still maximize the yield of drawer bottoms from the 4×8 sheets.

If you have been thinking about how to make DIY drawers, just follow these easy tutorial and you’ll have your homemade drawers ready to go in no time.

I’m so pleased with the way the DIY drawers turned out. I also love how much money I saved on craftily creating my own handles. Check back soon for my garage storage project – which will show these DIY drawers in action.

5 Proven Tips for Woodworking Like a Pro

May 11, 2017 by Paul (Guest Post) 51 Comments

Whether you are an avid DIYer or have always wanted to get into woodworking, learning how to work with wood is not as challenging as you would think. With these five proven tips, shared by Paul from Woodwork Boss, you can start learning how to woodwork like as a professional, even as a beginner. You don’t need all the fancy tools, just a willingness to learn. And, these tried and true tricks will definitely put you on the fast track to some awesome wood creations.

Woodworking is a wonderful skill to acquire. Even an amateur woodworker can accomplish many practical things, such as making a bench for the garden, framing an odd-sized painting, or fixing a broken drawer.

For centuries, wooden items were created with only hand tools. Nowadays, power tools make the work go quicker with less elbow grease. A lot of projects these days are accomplished with a combination of hand tools and power tools.

Choosing the right project is very important to achieving early success. As with any learning experience, simple skills should be mastered before moving on to more complicated ones. Otherwise, both the final product and your satisfaction in the work will be less than what it could be.

Let’s look at five proven woodworking tips that will help you become an accomplished woodworker in the best possible way.

Work Safely

First, you only have so many eyes, ears and fingers. Taking good care of them should take priority over any woodworking endeavor.

Even if you’re only using hand tools, wood shavings and splinters can fly around and end up in an eye. Without your sight, it would be difficult to become a talented woodworker so the first thing to focus on is eye protection.

Regular eyeglasses are not good eye protection. Wood dust can easily fly inside the frames and lenses.

Instead, get eye protection goggles from a hardware store. The goggles should fit snuggly to the sides of your face. The elastic band that keeps them on your head should be adjustable.

As you work on your projects, keep the goggles free of scratches, smudges, sap, dust, and any other obstruction that will prevent you from seeing clearly.

Every power tool makes noise. There are several types of ear protection you can get. Some people prefer the earmuff style while others like earplugs. Either one will do – as long as you use them.

Loud noises, such as the ones produced by power tools, have been proven to cause hearing loss. Hearing aids are expensive so protect your hearing now while you still have it.

Also, bystanders need eye and ear protection, too. If someone is looking on while you work, have an extra pair of safety glasses and earplugs. And, insist that they where them.

Nearly every woodworking tool has the potential of damaging or cutting fingers. You only have 10 and they don’t grow back. So, protect your fingers with a good well-fitting pair of leather gloves.

If you have a helper that is handling the wood, he or she needs good gloves, too. Remember safety comes first, above all other woodworking tips.

Start with Simple Joints

Choosing the correct first project can make or break you as a woodworker. If you take on a project that is too ambitious, you can become bogged down in the details and the end result may not look as good as you hoped it would.

Being proud of the finished project is very important if you plan to be a good woodworker. Like any skill worth learning, it is best to start with basics and get proficient in them. Then, gradually add skills that are more difficult.

The basic butt joint is the simplest method of joinery. You can build a bench, shelf or box with just this joint.

Also, the mitered butt joint requires getting the perfect angle on the cut. When you’re ready to try it, a picture frame or shallow box are good projects.

Nobody gets these joints perfect the first time (or the first five times) so plan to practice this joint many times before you feel proficient at it.

When purchasing the wood for your project, buy a few extra boards for practicing. You can also use your practice pieces to test stains and paints before applying them to the real thing.

Next, learn the half lap joint. This joint is useful for box dividers. For example, create a shallow 4-inch deep box using the basic butt joint or the mitered butt joint in the corners.

Then, divide the box into four sections by adding two slats, using the half lap joint where they cross in the center.

With these three joints, you can create a lot of different woodworking projects!

Use a Few Basic Hand Tools

Old timers did all their woodworking with hand tools. They built entire houses and barns with them. They filled them with furniture and cabinets. Mentioning this is not recommending you plan to build a house with hand tools. However, it is good to know it can be done.

If you are not already proficient with power tools, you might want to make a project or two with hand tools. Take your time to get a feel for the wood and how it responds to saws, nails, screws, sanding, painting and staining.

Most beginner projects can be done with just these hand tools:

hand saw
hammer
screwdriver
ruler
simple miter box
miter square
pencil

Take a look at the cross-cut hand saw. It is designed to cut wood across that grain and leave a smooth finish. You can purchase a cross-cut hand saw at any large hardware store and it will work well for these projects.

The screw driver should match the screws you will use. If you are not sure which screws will work best, ask the hardware store clerk to help you choose the right ones.

Since most screws need Phillips-head screwdrivers, get a screwdriver that fits well into the heads of the screws you will be using. Phillips-head screwdrivers have the cross pattern, not the straight-line pattern.

Additionally, the best ruler for a beginner who is making some beginner woodworking projects is a metal 36″ yardstick.

A simple miter box is very handy for making mitered corners of boxes or picture frames. You can purchase an inexpensive plastic miter box wherever the cross-cut saw is sold.

Recognize that Fine Wood Gives a Professional Look

For first projects, you might decide to use inexpensive wood. However, be aware that specialty wood can make the project look really stunning.

Some fancy wood is veneer. That is, there is just a thin layer of specialty wood covering the front surface of the sheet.

Most lumberyards carry 1/8-inch birch panels in their plywood section. This is not expensive and can look beautiful if the correct finish is applied.

Below are two pieces of pine boards – the one on the left is the better quality (compared to the knottier one on the right):

Making a Simple Box – Woodworking Tips

Start by building the sides of a shallow box. You can use either the basic butt joint or mitered joint for this. The sides can be made out of a 3-1/5-inch or 4-inch wide pine board.
Cut a piece of birch panel for the bottom of the box. Use tack nails and glue to create the bottom of the box. Make sure the corners are at a perfect 90-degree angle so that the box is perfectly square.
Create a picture frame that fits on top of this box.
Cut and insert a piece of birch paneling into the picture frame. Glue it into the picture frame.
Sand any rough edges down with very fine sandpaper. Wipe every bit of dust and grease off the box and cover.
Coat every part of the box with sanding sealer. This ensures that the final finish looks even and not blotchy.
When the sanding sealer is dry, apply a nice light stain or clear polyurethane finish to your box. Test the finish on scraps of the different types of wood you used for the box to see if you like it.

Congratulate yourself on making a very nice, custom project. Use the box to hold your small hand tools, watches or give it as a gift.

Fine-tuning a Few Basic Skills

Once you have made a few projects with hand tools, you should have a good feel for how the wood responds to you and your tools.

Your confidence has improved. You are now ready to learn the skills needed to use some basic power tools for your woodworking projects.

Start with the power drill. First, you will also need a tiny drill bit that you can use to make pilot holes before screwing boards together. Pilot holes help prevent the wood from splitting and allows the screws to go into the wood straighter and with less effort.

Then, you can put the screws into the pilot holes with your handheld screwdriver or you can put a screwdriver bit into your electric drill and zip the screws into the wood in the blink of an eye.

Two power saws that are relatively safe for beginners are handheld jigsaws and scroll saws. These are much safer than circular saws, chop saws or table saws.

Start with a handheld jigsaw. Buy a small variety of blades designed for wood (not metal). Read the instructions that come with the saw and practice putting the different blades into the saw. Get a feel for how tight the set screw should be to hold the blade securely.

Woodworking is a great way to forget the troubled outside world, and enjoy the work of your own hands. Always use your safety equipment – sight protection, hearing protection and gloves. These God-given tools are irreplaceable.

Choose simple projects in the beginning. Feel free to make several of the same item, getting better each time. Practice the basic skills and add new ones when the first ones are mastered.

Woodworking is a time-honored tradition that brings challenges and victories. If you have decided to take up woodworking, you have chosen wisely.

How to Make a Useful Scrap Wood Storage Bin

April 19, 2017 by Ash 23 Comments

During one of my recent garage cleaning sessions, I stared at a pile of scrap wood and wondered what I could do about it. The pile of wood scraps was a real eye sore. Yet, I frequently dug through the pile looking for wood scraps for various projects.

Eventually I came up with a solution for my pile of wood scraps. I would make a scrap wood storage bin in the corner of the garage.

Here is a picture of one of the scrap wood piles (yes, there were multiple piles) and it’s lack of a good storage spot:

Planning the Scrap Wood Storage Bin

I didn’t put too much extra thinking into the wood bin design since I had a general idea of what I wanted of storage pen to look like. And, I had enough extra scrap wood lying around to make it.

I always like to keep an inventory of 8ft 2x4s on hand, stashed away somewhere in the garage. They are very useful for all sorts of woodworking projects.

Even among random cutoffs, I almost always lean towards the 2×4 ones. The cutoffs are especially useful for building impromptu shelving mounts in the garage.

So for the scrap wood pen, I had an idea of erecting an L-shaped fence in the corner of the garage, and I would only use only 2x4s for the fence.

Constructing the Scrap Wood Storage Bin

Working within my available space of about 36” x 18”, I first attached some 2x4s to the wall studs for this scrap wood storage bin. These were going to serve as the wall mounts for the fence.

Then branching out from those mounts, I just kept cutting and attaching more 2x4s (via deck screws) until I had a basic fence frame, with upper and lower railings.

Next I connected the railings with vertical 2x4s, approximately every 3 inches. This created a sort of picket-fence look, which would be perfect for the scrap wood storage bin.

Here’s a picture close-up showing how the 2x4s were coming together for the wood scrap bin.

Adding Scrap Wood Storage Bin Sections

To get the most functional use out of the scrap wood storage pen, I decided to divide the wood bin into 3 sections. The different sections of the scrap wood bin could be used for organizing various lengths of wood into small, medium and large.

At first, I thought I could get away with just running 2 pieces of wire at the top to make simple dividers. However, it turned out to be very ugly. Also the wood scraps started to mix together below the wire, rendering the wire useless.

So I looked around the garage for more scrap wood storage ideas for dividers.

My eyes settled upon some scrap wood ¼” paneling sheets. They would be perfect for the storage bin. I quickly obtained some inside measurements of the wood bin and cut 2 rectangular panels using my table saw.

The panels fit perfectly into the scrap wood pen to create 3 sections. To secure one end of the panel to the wall, I attached some scrap wood to some wall studs. Then, I screwed the panels onto these mounts. I did the same to attach the other end to the fence.

Here’s a picture showing the 3 compartments in the wooden storage bin:

The divided sections via the scrap paneling really added a nice touch, and would prevent smaller wood pieces from getting mixed up with larger sizes in the wooden bin.

Last, I have a folding table (soon to be replaced with a custom built organizing work bench) next to the scrap wood pen where I tend to work on smaller projects.

The last thing I would want is pieces of wood leaning over too far and getting in my way. So to better accommodate the larger lengths of wood towards the rear, I extended the height of the wood scrap storage bin at the back.

After a few hours of work, here is where the day led me. Not bad for scrap wood storage, right?

Extra Scrap Wood Storage Shelving

All my scrap wood was now beautifully organized and in storage. I even got creative and added some shelving above. This would store the extra small scraps that would easily get lost in a wood pen:

The storage shelf was a last minute addition to the project. Looking at all the organized scrap wood had my mind racing with ideas, and so I freestyled a shelf.

I made the storage shelf mounts with two L-shaped shelving brackets, reinforced with 2×4 scraps. I then attached them to wall studs using some lag bolts. The storage shelf platform was just some particle board I had lying around.

To maximize the storage shelf potential, I even made a sub-shelf right below the main shelf. It would be great for containers of wood putty, stain, etc.

Garage Ceiling Storage

My scrap wood storage bin accommodated 90% of the scrap wood in my garage. The remaining 10% of wood was placed on two storage U bars attached to the ceiling, as shown in the picture below:

As you can see, the U bolts hold my valuable 8ft 2x4s, and other large wood pieces that either don’t fit in the scrap wood storage bin or would be too awkward to store.

I’ve even got two doors up there – maybe I’ll turn them into a workbench!

Time & Cost

This scrap wood storage bin project was very cheap to build – it cost me nothing. I used all scrap or surplus wood left over from previous projects. Even if I didn’t have any wood scraps, I estimate about $20 worth of 2x4s was used to make the scrap wood storage bin.

You can make your own scrap wood storage box too using scraps in your garage. It doesn’t have to be a picket-fence style like mine either.

Depending on what you have lying around, maybe just erect a simple fence frame, and wrap it in paneling, or even chain link fence. The possibilities are endless for storage bins, especially when you have scrap wood and other scrap materials.

How to Install an Exhaust Vent Fan in Your Workspace

January 11, 2017 by Ash 24 Comments

I’ve had garage ventilation on my mind for some time now. Between Eileen and I always doing projects in the garage, we produce a lot of fumes from painting and staining.

Cutting wood in there also throws a lot of sawdust into the air. Even when I work on the mower and other small engines in there, the smell of gasoline lingers.

On nice days when it’s not raining, we leave the garage door open and sometimes even put a fan to help exhaust the air.

However, this was not the ideal solution.

Many painting and staining projects would sit in the garage overnight filling the air with fumes, just to be aired out when the sun came up and when we can open the garage doors.

Aside from the noxious odors sitting in the garage the next morning, it would also delay the completion of these projects.

A better solution had to be devised for garage ventilation.

To add to the pressure, I recently acquired a snow blower for the upcoming winter snow storms, and that was bound to leave the garage filled with gasoline odors after usage. Even more reason to look into garage ventilation systems.

Garage Vent Fan

So I put my thinking cap on and wandered around the garage looking for ventilation ideas.

I knew I wanted to set up some type of fan that would exhaust the air, so I was looking for areas in the garage that would be an ideal location.

In my previous home, I used to run a lot of computer equipment in the garage that would produce a lot of heat. I had researched garage venting options back then and settled on a small fan and vent that could be installed directly in the garage door (via a small hole that you cut).

This solved my problem of exhausting the heat, but had an unfortunate side effect. During the winter, the garage door vent would let all the cold air in and drop the garage temperature below the freezing point, wreaking havoc on my paints and other liquids that were not meant to be frozen.

The garage door vents and exhaust option left a bad taste in my mouth ever since, and I was determined not to pursue that direction again. Also, to properly exhaust the size of my current garage, I would need a much larger fan and hole to make the job worthwhile.

Making a Plan for Ventilating the Garage

I finally settled on a way of venting the garage. I would find an ideal venting location in the garage, and cut a large square hole in the wall (roughly 14”x14” in between the wall studs).

Then I would install self-closing shutter vents on both the interior and exterior of the wall. Finally, on the inside, I would install a powerful exhaust fan to ventilate the garage. The double shutter vents were going to be key in helping to keep the cold air outside during the winter.

I did a lot of research on exhaust fans and decided on one with built-in shutters. I purchased a 14” diameter fan capable of 800 CFM.

No wiring was needed with this particular model because it just plugs into an outlet. I already had a wireless switch ready for it too, so I could activate it from the other side of the garage. For the exterior wall, I went a 14” aluminum shutter vent.

With the hardware identified, I looked for an ideal location for the vent. The best location would have been above one of the garage doors, but for aesthetics, I didn’t want the vent to be visible from the street.

So I went with a wall that faced the rear of the house. It would be practically invisible but still serve its purpose.

Here’s the location I chose inside for the garage exhaust fan:

Here’s where the vent would exhaust outside:

Preparing to Install the Garage Exhaust Vent

Above, you’ll see the first layer I went through was the drywall. Then I had 2 layers of insulating foam.

Next was the white vinyl siding. I left this intact for now while I awaited shipment of the exterior vent.

The cutout got a little rough at some of the edges, but it was not a big deal. The fan would cover all the edges, and hide any irregularities in my cut.

Next, I had to seal the top and bottom edges of the hole.

This was a necessary step to prevent the fan from venting air into the wall. I simply cut two pieces of 2x4s, inserted them in the top and bottom, and attached to the wall studs using some pocket hole screws (with the help of my Kreg Pocket Hole jig).

I put temporary hooks into the 2x4s to make it easier to maneuver them.

Here’s one of the 2x4s ready to be inserted:

Here’s a picture of the bottom of the hole, sealed in with the 2×4:

Next I inserted the exhaust fan to make sure it fit properly:

A few days later, the exterior shutter vent arrived and I resumed work on the project.

Constructing a J Channel Frame

Cutting a hole through the wall meant that I had to be careful to make the exterior side water proof. I couldn’t just cut a hole in the siding, insert the vent, and call it a day.

To keep water from penetrating the siding, I needed to use J channel. This would allow me to create a frame around the vent that would overlap the siding and shield the rough cut edges from water.

Here is a picture showing 4 pieces of J channel cut to make the vent frame:

This was actually my first time working with J channel, so I had to do some research online to see how to make the cuts on the ends (important to prevent water from seeping in).

I followed some great instructions on FamilyHandyMan.com (under the section “Install J-channel around the window”).

Here’s a picture showing the assembled J channel pieces wrapping around the vent:

Preparing the Siding for the Exhaust Fan

Now came the fun task of working with the siding.

To properly install the exterior vent, I needed access to the wall underneath the siding, which meant removing several pieces of siding. This was a learning process as I went along (I did all my research, so I was confident in the task at hand).

With the help of a siding removal tool, I was able to easily detach some siding, and pull it away from the wall.

With enough of the siding out of the way, I was able to continue work on the hole.

To help with the waterproofing, I used some flashing tape (left over from my shed project) to seal in the edges of the hole.

Here’s a picture showing the flashing tape in action:

In the event that water did make its way through the siding, the flashing tape would ensure that the water couldn’t seep behind the exposed edges of the foam insulation.

Installing the Garage Vent

Next, I inserted the shutter vent and nailed it in the wall studs. Here’s a picture showing some progress:

With the garage vent in place, I attached the J channel frame, overlapping the rough cut edges of the vinyl siding.

Here’s a close-up showing the finished outside wall with J channel:

Looks very professional, doesn’t it? It should be very water tight too.

Here’s a picture showing the vent from the inside:

Installing the Exhaust Fan

I was nearing the end of the project of putting vents in the garage. I inserted the exhaust fan in the hole and was getting ready to screw it into the studs.

Then, I decided to check the vents on the fan to make sure they opened and closed properly.

They opened fine. Unfortunately, they had trouble closing.

They would stick on the way down and not close all the way. This was bothersome because a partially open vent meant cold drafts coming in.

After some fiddling, I discovered that the hole I cut was too snug of a fit for the fan frame.

It was distorting the frame ever so slightly to cause the shutters to not close properly. If I pulled the fan about 2 inches out from the wall, the shutters worked fine.

So the solution was simple.

Making a Framed Wooden Spacer for the Garage Wall Exhaust Fan

I would built a 2×4 wooden frame between the wall and the fan, to give the exhaust fan enough distance from the hole for the shutters to operate properly.

I literally spent only 10 minutes on this task – I chopped some 2x4s to length with the miter saw.

Then I attached them to each other with pocket hole screws to form a frame.

Finally, I used some lag bolts (countersunk with a forstner bit) to attach the frame to the wall studs.

Here’s a picture of the garage wall exhaust fan frame (the pocket holes are hidden on the other side):

At last, the exhaust fan could be bolted to the wall.

I pressed the fan against the 2×4 frame and made sure the shutters opened and closed freely. Then I attached the fan to the 2x4s with some heavy duty screws.

My garage vent was now completed. I stood back, admired my handiwork and then fired up the exhaust fan with my wireless switch.

As the fan speed increased to full, both the inside and outside shutters opened to exhaust the garage. The fan was not that loud either (it was barely audible outside the garage).

Here’s a picture of the mounted garage wall exhaust fan (powered on) from the inside:

Here’s a picture of the outside of the garage wall exhaust fan, showing the vents open with the fan on:

I’m very excited about our new garage exhaust fan. I already used it this past weekend with great success.

We had a mild snow shower (about 4 inches), and so I broke out the snowblower to try it out.

As predicted, when I finished clearing out the snow from the driveway, and put away the snowblower in the garage, the still warm engine started to stink up the garage.

I engaged the new exhaust fan for a few hours, and the garage was back to normal.

I can’t wait to see what the fan does when the garage is full of sawdust in the air.

Total cost of putting the vent fan in the garage was around $150 and was collectively about a day’s worth of work.

If you are in need of exhaust fans in the garage, this tutorial will have your new garage wall exhaust fan up and running in no time!

Garage Vent Fan Update – Two Years Later

I was really pleased with the garage vent fan. It runs great and really airs the garage out nicely.

However, I did add on more thing to our garage vent fan.

I had been manually turning the fan on and off as needed. Sometimes I left it running longer than I anticipated.

So I wanted a better system of turning the fan off. I ended up purchasing an electronic timer switch and plugged the fan into it.

Now, I just press a button for how long I’d like the fan to run for and it runs for just that duration.

Most Popular DIY Projects of 2016

December 31, 2016 by Eileen 54 Comments

The end of year is always so bittersweet – reflecting on all of the amazing memories, but grateful to move on from some others.

One of the best things this year was our blog. We have always loved sharing our home projects with others, but documenting them as been amazing!

We even started including some of our more crafty endeavors.

Creativity definitely inspires more creativity.

My love for organization inspired a few of Ash’s garage projects this year. While, Ash’s constant repurposing “junk” has rubbed off on me.

I love that we continue to inspire each other.

Here are our best DIY projects from 2016. In true New Years Eve style, here’s the countdown:

#10 – CD Tower to Pantry Shelf

This CD tower was ready to be kicked to the curb, until Ash had the brilliant idea of using it for built-in pantry storage.

He cut a hole into a pantry wall, used a cool little gadget to search inside, knocked more of the wall, and inserted the tower.

#9 – Ice Cream Sundae Gift Box

Wrapped in a pretty little box and adorned with ribbon, this Sundae Gift Box was a hit!

Much cheaper (and cuter) than ordering from the store, it has everything you need to make a sundae.

It’s a perfect gift for those who need a little happiness 🙂

#8 – Built-In Bookshelf with a Window Seat

Hands down, this is my absolute favorite of our DIY projects. In just a few weeks, Ash turned a boring old wall into a complete dream.

Not only does this built-in beautifully store all of the books I have collected, but it’s bright, airy, and gorgeous.

Not to mention the window seat, which is aesthetically pleasing and the cabinets below are awesome storage.

#7 – Chalk Paint Makeover

The before and after on this one is shocking! My dad’s jaw dropped, and he is usually only impressed with Ash’s projects.

This was my first experience with chalk paint, and I am sold. 2017 will definitely be bringing more chalk paint makeovers. This was one of our DIY projects with the biggest transformation.

#6 Picnic Table

Ash blew me away with this one too – as he built this in ONE day!

The table top and bench seats are made of composite decking – a durable, safe material that’s easy to clean, and is easy on the eyes.

We’ve had it in the yard for about five months now, and it looks just as great as it did on the first day. If you are looking for DIY projects that are cost-effective and simply, build a DIY picnic table.

#5 – Kitchen Cabinet Makeover

Our kitchen got a major makeover this year, as we gel stained the cabinets, painted the walls, and installed tile backsplash.

Yet as far as cost goes, you can’t beat it.

I was hesitant to take on such a big project, but I started small (with the bathroom vanity) – and went on to completely change our kitchen’s look.

#4 – Building a Shed

When Ash told me that he was going to build a shed, I laughed – I thought he was joking! He only had a few DIY projects under his belt, and building a shed is like building a house!

However, his motivation, attention to detail, dedication, and love of learning resulted in this beautifully built shed.

I am still in awe.

#3 – Wedding Wine Basket for First Year Milestones

This sweet wedding milestone wine basket has been on the trend this year!

It’s a creative, personal gift, and I’ve done all the work for you – as I’ve included all of the printables I used for free!

It’s so much fun to make that I’ve been waiting for more friends and family to marry, so I can make more 🙂

#2 – Green Rain Barrel

After watching me lug gallons of water down the backyard to water my plants, Ash created an eco-friendly rain barrel.

Using a trash can, he made a system that collects rain water to reuse. Thus, eliminating my trips back and forth and saving good water!

# 1 – Folding Workbench

Tired of working on the floor, Ash finally had a chance to build a workbench of his own – which was a dream of his.

Always thinking of how to save space, he came up with a floating design that doesn’t compromise any structural integrity.

Through being featured on sites such as Life Hacker and Make, it brought tons of visitors this year, thus earning our number one spot.

Well, that’s all, my friends.

Wishing you a very happy new year!

How to Fix Up Your Old Snowblower

December 17, 2016 by Ash 2 Comments

Having spent most of my life in warmer climates, I was 15 years old when I first saw snow.

I was captivated by it. I loved being out in the snow, playing snow sports, and even shoveling. To this day, I still love snow.

I’ve always wanted a snowblower, but we’ve never had a strong need.

After moving into our new house with a massive driveway, the snow last winter was too much. After a major storm, my neighbor lent me his snowblower, and I was enthralled.

It was so much fun to use, and even though I enjoy a good shoveling workout, it freed up a lot of time to play with my son in the snow.

So I was determined to get my own snowblower for next winter.

Purchasing an Old Snowblower

I started my snowblower search early fall. My goal was to find a good machine without spending a lot – even if it meant fixing an old snowblower.

I already had a lot of experience maintaining my mower – a 20-year old Craftsman riding lawn mower.

From simple engine oil changes to fuel pump replacements to carburetor rebuilds, I have the old riding lawn mower running like new.

So, I decided to look for a used snowblower.

Due to my experience with the Craftsman brand, I know that their replacement parts are plentiful and cheap online.

They also provide manuals and parts diagrams for almost every model equipment they make (just enter the model number on SearsPartsDirect.com).

I found an amazing deal – $125 for a Craftsman 5HP two stage snowblower with an electric start. Comparable ones were selling used for around $275.

For such a low price, I knew the old craftsman snowblower wasn’t going to be in perfect condition, so I kept my expectations low.

Inspecting the Used Snowblower

Upon my inspection, the snowblower was missing the pull cord for manual startup, and the carburetor would leak fuel every now and then.

It was also missing the control knob for the choke.

The guy selling it said the old craftsman snowblower would start making surging sounds after some time, until you fiddled with the carburetor fuel release screws.

He started it up though and it ran great.

I checked out all the forward/reverse gears. I inspected the impeller to make sure it was in good shape. The auger had no structural damage.

I was excited. For around $40 more in parts, I could get this old snowblower in top shape.

I happily accepted the offer of $125 and loaded the used craftsman into my SUV, with plans on fixing up the old snowblower.

I had brought along a pair of ramps I made a few weeks ago with two 2×8 wood planks and ramp supports.

This helped me load the used snowblower in the back of the car.

I did have to take out a few screws to fold the push handle in half to fit properly though.

I also wrapped the carburetor in a plastic bag to catch any fuel that was leaking (didn’t need the car smelling like gas for days).

Here’s a picture of my used snowblower before fixing it up:

Ordering Snowblower Replacement Parts

When I got home, I grabbed the snowblower model number off the back and went online to order some parts:

Based on my assessment of the machine, I put through an order for the following parts:

Carburetor
Pull starter rope and handle
Knob for choke
Spark plug

The price for the snowblower parts came up around $40 as I predicted. I considered rebuilding the carburetor (the leaking was probably from a deteriorated rubber seal), but new carburetors for this model were so cheap (around $15).

I actually just replaced my neighbor’s snowblower carburetor with the exact same one a few weeks ago too.

Fixing an Old Snow Blower

All my parts for the craftsman snowblower came about a week later and I went to work restoring the machine to tip-top shape. Below is a walk-through of what I did. Hopefully these craftsman snowblower maintenance tips can help you too.

Disconnecting the Craftsman Carburetor

I located the craftsman snowblower carburetor housing:

Then, I removed the housing to expose the snowblower carburetor:

I disconnected the yellow priming hose seen above (used to pump air from the priming bulb into the carburetor to force fuel out for a cold start), followed by the main fuel hose below:

It was important to clamp off the main fuel hose or fuel would immediately pour out once disconnected.

I used a vice grip, taking care not to squeeze so tightly that the hose would get damaged.

Fuel hoses are sometimes tough to disconnect, so I used special curved nose pliers to grip the hose and twist:

I had a plastic cup underneath the hose while disconnecting it, in case my vice grip clamp didn’t do a good job.

A word to the wise however – don’t use cheap plastic cups to hold gasoline. I didn’t think it was a big deal because I used a plastic cup the other day to catch some excess gas from my neighbor’s snowblower carburetor.

However, this time, a few minutes after collecting some gas, I noticed a small puddle on the garage floor.

Apparently the gasoline had eaten through my plastic cup!

I looked it up online, and discovered that some plastic cups are not friendly to gasoline. Most likely my plastic cup this time was made from a corn based product, which would be dissolved by the gasoline.

Next, I unhooked a metal link wire connecting the throttle control lever to the carburetor, and attempted to remove two bolts holding the carburetor to the engine block.

Removing the Snowblower Carburetor

The bolts were on extremely tight and I could not remove with a screw driver. The screw heads actually started stripping.

So, I brought out my impact drill and it did the job with ease:

Here’s a picture of the removed craftsman carburetor:

The removed piece actually consisted of more than just the core carburetor, so I had to strip it down to extract the carburetor (seen in the center of the picture below):

The piece on the right is called the intake pipe and connects the carburetor to the engine block.

Unfortunately, when I pulled it off the snowblower engine, a gasket in between the two ripped from old age.

My new carburetor didn’t come with this gasket (since it’s not technically part of the carburetor), so I had to order a replacement.

This meant I had to wait a few days to actually fire up the machine with the new carburetor. I could still proceed with the installation though, and just insert the gasket when it arrived.

Here’s a picture showing where the gasket would go on the snowblower:

To install the new carburetor, I just reversed the steps above with the new piece. I loosely connected it back to the engine block, awaiting the gasket for completion.

Spark Plug and Starter Cord

Next I replaced the snowblower spark plug:

After, I proceeded to fix the snowblower pull cord for starting it up. The original rope most likely broke from old age.

Here’s where the fix was to be done:

Here’s a picture showing the new pull starter rope and handle to be installed:

And, here’s the snowblower pull cord housing removed showing the old frayed rope:

I simply removed old pull cord and threaded in the new pull started cord, coiling it around the starter. Here’s a picture showing the repaired starter rope:

The snowblower pull cord remained secured to the starter and handle with knots on both ends.

To keep the knots from undoing, I used a lighter to melt the end of the polyester rope slightly (also a necessary step when cutting polyester rope to keep the ends from fraying):

When the intake pipe gasket arrived in the mail a few days later, I resumed work on the snow blower. I installed the gasket and secured the carburetor tightly to the engine block.

The craftsman snowblower was ready to be fired up. I rolled it outside and hooked up an extension cord for the electric start.The engine started up right away with the new carburetor and there were no more leaks. I also tested the snowblower’s pull starter with the new rope. The engine started up just as easily as the electric start.

Snowblower Engine Oil

Next I was going to change the snowblower engine oil. I let the engine run for a few minutes to warm up the engine oil (warm oil flows more freely when draining it).

Then I shut it off and proceeded with the oil change.

After remove the oil dip stick, I used a small funnel with a hose and an oil storage reservoir and drained the warm oil:

After all the snowblower’s engine oil was drained, I closed back the drain port and began filling 5W-30 motor oil into the dipstick hole:

While filling the engine oil, I took breaks regularly to check the level with the dipstick.

I learned the hard way that when you overfill the snowblower engine with oil that it’s going to come out of the engine one way or another, and not in a nice way.

Final Craftsman Snowblower Maintenance Tips

The craftsman snowblower revamp was nearly done. I replaced the missing choke knob. Also, the carburetor housing was vibrating excessively due so some missing screws, producing a lot of noise with the engine running. I dug through my garage screw collection until I found a fit.

Finally, as my final step in fixing up the old craftsman snow blower, I applied some non-stick ice and snow coating to the auger blades and impeller chute. This prepared the snow blower for the upcoming winter season.

This would greatly help prevent the snowblower chute from clogging up during use, and allow the augers to cut through the snow like butter.

Here’s the snowblower non stick spray:

In total, I spent around $165 on purchasing and fixing an old snow blower ($125 to purchase and $40 in parts) and put in less than 3 hours of work to get it in prime condition.

I’m eagerly looking forward to this upcoming winter and the next major snowstorm so I can use my new but used craftsman snowblower that’s running great.