Home Improvement

How to Fix Up Your Old Snowblower

December 17, 2016 by Ash 2 Comments

Having spent most of my life in warmer climates, I was 15 years old when I first saw snow.

I was captivated by it. I loved being out in the snow, playing snow sports, and even shoveling. To this day, I still love snow.

I’ve always wanted a snowblower, but we’ve never had a strong need.

After moving into our new house with a massive driveway, the snow last winter was too much. After a major storm, my neighbor lent me his snowblower, and I was enthralled.

It was so much fun to use, and even though I enjoy a good shoveling workout, it freed up a lot of time to play with my son in the snow.

So I was determined to get my own snowblower for next winter.

Purchasing an Old Snowblower

I started my snowblower search early fall. My goal was to find a good machine without spending a lot – even if it meant fixing an old snowblower.

I already had a lot of experience maintaining my mower – a 20-year old Craftsman riding lawn mower.

From simple engine oil changes to fuel pump replacements to carburetor rebuilds, I have the old riding lawn mower running like new.

So, I decided to look for a used snowblower.

Due to my experience with the Craftsman brand, I know that their replacement parts are plentiful and cheap online.

They also provide manuals and parts diagrams for almost every model equipment they make (just enter the model number on SearsPartsDirect.com).

I found an amazing deal – $125 for a Craftsman 5HP two stage snowblower with an electric start. Comparable ones were selling used for around $275.

For such a low price, I knew the old craftsman snowblower wasn’t going to be in perfect condition, so I kept my expectations low.

Inspecting the Used Snowblower

Upon my inspection, the snowblower was missing the pull cord for manual startup, and the carburetor would leak fuel every now and then.

It was also missing the control knob for the choke.

The guy selling it said the old craftsman snowblower would start making surging sounds after some time, until you fiddled with the carburetor fuel release screws.

He started it up though and it ran great.

I checked out all the forward/reverse gears. I inspected the impeller to make sure it was in good shape. The auger had no structural damage.

I was excited. For around $40 more in parts, I could get this old snowblower in top shape.

I happily accepted the offer of $125 and loaded the used craftsman into my SUV, with plans on fixing up the old snowblower.

I had brought along a pair of ramps I made a few weeks ago with two 2×8 wood planks and ramp supports.

This helped me load the used snowblower in the back of the car.

I did have to take out a few screws to fold the push handle in half to fit properly though.

I also wrapped the carburetor in a plastic bag to catch any fuel that was leaking (didn’t need the car smelling like gas for days).

Here’s a picture of my used snowblower before fixing it up:

Ordering Snowblower Replacement Parts

When I got home, I grabbed the snowblower model number off the back and went online to order some parts:

Based on my assessment of the machine, I put through an order for the following parts:

Carburetor
Pull starter rope and handle
Knob for choke
Spark plug

The price for the snowblower parts came up around $40 as I predicted. I considered rebuilding the carburetor (the leaking was probably from a deteriorated rubber seal), but new carburetors for this model were so cheap (around $15).

I actually just replaced my neighbor’s snowblower carburetor with the exact same one a few weeks ago too.

Fixing an Old Snow Blower

All my parts for the craftsman snowblower came about a week later and I went to work restoring the machine to tip-top shape. Below is a walk-through of what I did. Hopefully these craftsman snowblower maintenance tips can help you too.

Disconnecting the Craftsman Carburetor

I located the craftsman snowblower carburetor housing:

Then, I removed the housing to expose the snowblower carburetor:

I disconnected the yellow priming hose seen above (used to pump air from the priming bulb into the carburetor to force fuel out for a cold start), followed by the main fuel hose below:

It was important to clamp off the main fuel hose or fuel would immediately pour out once disconnected.

I used a vice grip, taking care not to squeeze so tightly that the hose would get damaged.

Fuel hoses are sometimes tough to disconnect, so I used special curved nose pliers to grip the hose and twist:

I had a plastic cup underneath the hose while disconnecting it, in case my vice grip clamp didn’t do a good job.

A word to the wise however – don’t use cheap plastic cups to hold gasoline. I didn’t think it was a big deal because I used a plastic cup the other day to catch some excess gas from my neighbor’s snowblower carburetor.

However, this time, a few minutes after collecting some gas, I noticed a small puddle on the garage floor.

Apparently the gasoline had eaten through my plastic cup!

I looked it up online, and discovered that some plastic cups are not friendly to gasoline. Most likely my plastic cup this time was made from a corn based product, which would be dissolved by the gasoline.

Next, I unhooked a metal link wire connecting the throttle control lever to the carburetor, and attempted to remove two bolts holding the carburetor to the engine block.

Removing the Snowblower Carburetor

The bolts were on extremely tight and I could not remove with a screw driver. The screw heads actually started stripping.

So, I brought out my impact drill and it did the job with ease:

Here’s a picture of the removed craftsman carburetor:

The removed piece actually consisted of more than just the core carburetor, so I had to strip it down to extract the carburetor (seen in the center of the picture below):

The piece on the right is called the intake pipe and connects the carburetor to the engine block.

Unfortunately, when I pulled it off the snowblower engine, a gasket in between the two ripped from old age.

My new carburetor didn’t come with this gasket (since it’s not technically part of the carburetor), so I had to order a replacement.

This meant I had to wait a few days to actually fire up the machine with the new carburetor. I could still proceed with the installation though, and just insert the gasket when it arrived.

Here’s a picture showing where the gasket would go on the snowblower:

To install the new carburetor, I just reversed the steps above with the new piece. I loosely connected it back to the engine block, awaiting the gasket for completion.

Spark Plug and Starter Cord

Next I replaced the snowblower spark plug:

After, I proceeded to fix the snowblower pull cord for starting it up. The original rope most likely broke from old age.

Here’s where the fix was to be done:

Here’s a picture showing the new pull starter rope and handle to be installed:

And, here’s the snowblower pull cord housing removed showing the old frayed rope:

I simply removed old pull cord and threaded in the new pull started cord, coiling it around the starter. Here’s a picture showing the repaired starter rope:

The snowblower pull cord remained secured to the starter and handle with knots on both ends.

To keep the knots from undoing, I used a lighter to melt the end of the polyester rope slightly (also a necessary step when cutting polyester rope to keep the ends from fraying):

When the intake pipe gasket arrived in the mail a few days later, I resumed work on the snow blower. I installed the gasket and secured the carburetor tightly to the engine block.

The craftsman snowblower was ready to be fired up. I rolled it outside and hooked up an extension cord for the electric start.The engine started up right away with the new carburetor and there were no more leaks. I also tested the snowblower’s pull starter with the new rope. The engine started up just as easily as the electric start.

Snowblower Engine Oil

Next I was going to change the snowblower engine oil. I let the engine run for a few minutes to warm up the engine oil (warm oil flows more freely when draining it).

Then I shut it off and proceeded with the oil change.

After remove the oil dip stick, I used a small funnel with a hose and an oil storage reservoir and drained the warm oil:

After all the snowblower’s engine oil was drained, I closed back the drain port and began filling 5W-30 motor oil into the dipstick hole:

While filling the engine oil, I took breaks regularly to check the level with the dipstick.

I learned the hard way that when you overfill the snowblower engine with oil that it’s going to come out of the engine one way or another, and not in a nice way.

Final Craftsman Snowblower Maintenance Tips

The craftsman snowblower revamp was nearly done. I replaced the missing choke knob. Also, the carburetor housing was vibrating excessively due so some missing screws, producing a lot of noise with the engine running. I dug through my garage screw collection until I found a fit.

Finally, as my final step in fixing up the old craftsman snow blower, I applied some non-stick ice and snow coating to the auger blades and impeller chute. This prepared the snow blower for the upcoming winter season.

This would greatly help prevent the snowblower chute from clogging up during use, and allow the augers to cut through the snow like butter.

Here’s the snowblower non stick spray:

In total, I spent around $165 on purchasing and fixing an old snow blower ($125 to purchase and $40 in parts) and put in less than 3 hours of work to get it in prime condition.

I’m eagerly looking forward to this upcoming winter and the next major snowstorm so I can use my new but used craftsman snowblower that’s running great.

Transforming a Kitchen Desk into Cabinet Space

November 30, 2016 by Ash 62 Comments

Over the course of living in our new home for a couple of years, we remedied our dated kitchen by refinishing our kitchen cabinets with gel stain, installing a natural stone backsplash, and purchasing stainless steel appliances (via some Black Friday discounts).

There still remained though, an odd looking corner next to the fridge. It was a desk area, with a floating cabinet drawer to allow space for a chair – and no cabinet storage underneath.

The previous owners of our house had used it as a kitchen desk with a chair.

Not only was it an inefficient use of space (the kitchen already had limited cabinet storage), but the protruding corner edge posed a risk to our young toddler, who was just about the same height.

Granted we could have put bumpers on it, but why not kill two birds with one stone and box in the empty space below the drawer, converting it into a normal cabinet for storage.

This would eliminate the dangerous corner edge and also turn the wasteful space into something usable.

It was settled – we would convert our awkward kitchen desk into cabinet space.

Here’s a picture taken from further away, showing the floating drawer to the right of the fridge. This picture was taken prior to the gel stain, backsplash, and new appliances.

Planning the New Cabinet

With our idea to convert the kitchen desk into cabinet space, I gathered the dimensions of the empty space and went to work in TinkerCad. Here is the design I came up with:

While playing around with the design, I originally omitted the toe kick (the recessed part at the front bottom). I didn’t think it was necessary and would have simplified the build a bit.

However, after Eileen and I discussed it more (and researched online about it), I decided to add it in. I never thought about it before, but that toe kick area is actually an ergonomic feature.

Without an area to insert your feet, getting up close to the cabinet (especially to reach the taller shelves) would put a lot of extra strain on your back to lean forward. The toe kick allows you to get up really close without leaning forward too much more.

Ordering & Preparing the Cabinet Doors

I planned on purchasing pre-made cabinet doors to match the rest of the kitchen. I lacked the tools necessary to create professionally routed cabinet doors from scratch, so ordering them online was the best option.

There were many styles available online, but they all seemed to fall into roughly the same categories across different vendors. The style that matched our other cabinet doors the most was a Cathedral style, with routed arch in the middle top of the door.

The doors were small (around 10” x 30”), so it was pretty cheap to order just two of them. I spent around $70 and they arrived in about 2 weeks (I got the best deal from Fast Cabinet Doors but there are lots of other sites to get custom doors from).

The doors came unfinished, so I had to stain and polyurethane them myself. I also got the same cabinet handles used in the rest of the kitchen for the new doors.

Here is a picture of the finished cabinet door with handle:

Constructing the Cabinet Box

The actual construction of the cabinet box was fairly straight forward. I just followed the design and measurements in the TinkerCAD drawing.

I used mostly ¾” sanded plywood for the surfaces. For the door openings, I used my compact circular saw with a clamped down piece of scrap wood for a guide. I used my jigsaw at the corners to make flush cuts.

The back left corner of the cabinet box has a piece of 4×4 serving as a leg to help support the bottom shelf.

I attached the plywood pieces to each other with small wood screws and construction adhesive. The outside facing screws were countersunk and were to be covered up with wood putty later and sanded to a smooth finish.

Finally, I used several small L brackets in strategic places to help provide additional structural support (like underneath the bottom shelf, and above the right door opening).

Once the cabinet box was complete, I placed it underneath the kitchen drawer for a fitting.

Staining the Cabinet Box to Match the Kitchen

After a successful trial fit, back into the garage it went for a final sanding before the stain went on. I used the General Finishes Gel Stain in Antique Walnut stain to match the rest of the kitchen cabinets.

We had recently just re-stained the whole kitchen, so had plenty left over to finish this new kitchen desk into cabinet project.

It took about 3 coats of the gel stain, and then 2 coats of polyurethane to get the box ready for the kitchen.

Eileen was worried about the color of this new cabinet matching the rest of the kitchen, as the gel stain was going directly on bare wood – versus the gel stain going on top of already stained wood.

The match was almost perfect.

If you look very closely, you will notice that the cabinet looks a little shinier than the rest of the kitchen; however, it’s an almost perfect match.

Attaching the New Kitchen Cabinet

Once ready, I put it back in place under the kitchen drawer and prepared the area for a permanent addition.

I first used my oscillating multi tool to remove a portion of the baseboard so the cabinet box could sit flush with the wall.

Then I attached two pieces of 2 x 4 to some wall studs directly beneath the kitchen drawer. I used these to secure the back right edge of the new cabinet box.

Using some L brackets, the front left edge of the cabinet box was screwed directly into an existing piece of wood (being used to help support the shelf).

The cabinet box was now firmly attached to the kitchen.

Final Touches

There were a few gaps and a slightly noticeable line where the new cabinet box met the existing kitchen drawer. So I sanded the wood down slightly at the gap (to remove the polyurethane) and filled with wood putty.

Once dried, I sanded down the putty to a smooth finish, stained it and re-applied the polyurethane. The line disappeared and the cabinet box transitioned into the drawer very nicely now

Here is a picture of the final product:

Additional Interior Shelving

After installation, I added a second shelf inside the cabinet to accommodate even more kitchen storage.

Here is what the inside of the kitchen cabinet looks like:

For under $100, this kitchen desk into cabinet project was well worth the effort. Although it take several days to complete due to the drying times for the stain and polyurethane, it was really only a few hours of work collectively.

The cabinet box blends in so well with the kitchen that we forgot it used to be a desk. The kitchen cabinet is huge and was such a great bonus in our small kitchen. We couldn’t be happier than we transformed that awkward kitchen desk into cabinet space.

4 Simple Steps for Magical Results with Chalk Paint

November 27, 2016 by Eileen 50 Comments

I finally decided to try my hand at using chalk paint. I love using a good wood stain, but I had been hearing so much about chalk paint lately that I decided to give it a try with a “practice piece.”

Using a decades old nightstand with many stains and uneven surfaces, the chalk paint exceeded my expectations, totally transforming the desolate nightstand into a modern piece, without any sanding or priming.

I was sold on chalk paint, and I’m sure you will be too after reading through this chalk paint tutorial.

Before I give you the step-by-step instructions on using chalk paint, here are a few pictures of the piece before the chalk paint. You can see the uneven surfaces and scratches, especially on the lower part of the shelf.

Using chalk paint on furniture - You won't believe the "After!"

And this is a close-up of the top of the nightstand before using chalk paint. It wasn’t in good shape at all – but the chalk paint covered it all perfectly without any sanding.

Choosing a Chalk Paint

The first step in the chalk paint process was deciding what brand chalk paint to use. I used Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. I went back and forth deciding whether to use Annie Sloan or another brand. Since I was split down the middle, I ultimately decided to use Annie Sloan because of the chemical warning I saw written on the wax container of the other brand of chalk paint – in comparison to the natural ingredients used in the Annie Sloan wax (like beeswax).

That, coupled with the fact that it was my first chalk paint project, sold me on the Annie Sloan brand.

For the top of the nightstand, I used primarily French Linen chalk paint from Annie Sloan (keep reading for how I made it look like distressed wood).

For the rest of the piece, I used Pure White chalk paint from Annie Sloan on the rest of the piece. Just as a side note about, the Pure White chalk paint – it is very white.

Chalk Paint Materials

You can go a little overboard on chalk paint materials, so I wanted to keep it as simple as possible.

French Linen (Annie Sloan) Chalk Paint – for the top of the nightstand
Pure White (Annie Sloan) Chalk Paint – for the majority of the piece, and a little for blending the top
Annie Sloan Clear Wax – to cover the whole piece as a protective coating
Annie Sloan Dark Wax – to help create the look of distressed wood on the top
Brushes – I liked using a round brush like this one and I used a 1-inch and 2-inch angular one too
White lint-free rags – to rub the wax on
Gloves, mask (if desired), newspaper/brown paper for floor, and baby wipes to wipe down piece prior to painting.

Now, it seems like a lot of materials for chalk painting, but there is a lot of leftover paint, and the paintbrushes can be reused on any painting project.

The other thing you might be worried about is using wax. I read about a lot of others having trouble with waxing after the chalk paint. However, do not worry – the wax was the simplest part of the chalk paint process!!

Wax is way better to use than polyurethane, and it went by way quicker than the painting.

How to Refinish Furniture with Chalk Paint

With these simple four steps, you will be able to beautifully chalk paint a piece of old furniture.

Here I am ready to give this old nightstand a fresh new look with the following chalk paint steps.

Step 1 – Clean Your Piece

When getting started with the chalk paint process, first clean your piece really good so the chalk paint will stick. I like using baby wipes to clean off furniture.
Then remove any hardware – like drawer knobs – unless you plan to paint these.

Step 2 – Work on the Top

First, tape the edges of the piece. Then you can you can uninhibitedly chalk paint the top.
Then, start brushing on the French Linen chalk paint. Chalk paint goes on just like any other paint, so I gave it a good, thick coat of paint going with the grain. You can go against or in any direction, if you want your whole piece to have an uneven, distressed look. As for brushes, I used the round brush – but any of the brushes would have been fine.
As you are chalk painting, watch for edges and any dripping. The paint is thick, so it doesn’t drip too much; however, because the chalk paint dries fast, you’ll want to catch any potential mistakes quickly.
Let the first coat of chalk paint dry. It took about 30-45 minutes for me. Chalk paint dries super fast!
If you want the top to have a uniform color, then apply another coat.

Technically, the top will now be done, and you can move on to Step 3. Yet, if you want to give it a distressed wood look, follow the below steps for distressed chalk paint:

Distressing the Wood (optional)

Paint a second coat of French Linen, adding a little water in. This coat is different because you are going to add a little water into the gray. Because chalk paint is thick and fast-drying, it’s hard to brush other colors into it. Adding a small amount of water will make the paint a little easier to work with – keeping the paint wet longer, which allows you to brush in the white chalk paint. As for an amount, you can just lightly dip your brush into a cup of water or you could use a plastic cup to put some chalk paint and water into. Again, just a little dip into the water will go a long way with the chalk paint.
After you give the top a second coat of watered down French Linen, while it’s still wet, it’s time to put some white streaks onto the gray chalk paint. Use the Pure White chalk paint and dab your brush in – just a small dab. You can run the brush along a piece of paper to get rid of any excess. The goal is to create streaky white brush strokes on your gray. The round brush is perfect for this. You can make subtle white streaks like I did – or you can make them more frequent and apparent. If you have too much white, then use the gray again – keep layering it until you are happy with how it looks. Remember it’s not supposed to look uniform. The strokes of white are creating character and dimension.

Let the chalk paint dry again – 30 min to 45 should be good.
Last, use the dark wax on your chalk paint. Similarly to how you just used the white, you are going to lightly (very lightly) dip your round brush into the dark wax. Only the very ends of your brush should have wax. Just as you brushed on the white paint, brush on the wax here and there, giving the piece more dimension. If you put on too much of the dark wax, then layer again with the gray chalk paint until you are happy with the results. I used a very small amount of the dark wax because I wanted more of an even look.

As far as creating this look, I found this part of the chalk paint process so much fun, and I am not even an artist.

Rather than just painting brush stroke after brush stroke to cover area, it was something different – and was quite fun and relaxing to create this dimensional look with chalk paint. It was definitely one of my favorite steps of the chalk paint process.

Also, as mentioned before, if you make mistakes or aren’t happy with the way it looks, it is easy to fix by touching up the chalk paint.

Step 3 – Paint, Paint, Paint

Now it is time to chalk paint the rest of your piece, leaving the top that you just painted as is. I used the Pure White chalk paint and used the angular brushes to put it on. Don’t forget to also do your drawers.
The first coat of chalk paint will look streaky (pictured below), but a good, thick coat helps.

After the first coat of chalk paint dries, give the piece a second coat of chalk paint. My piece was still pretty streaky after two coats of paint (pictured below).

I did one more coat of chalk paint, which made for a total of 3. For the chalk paint to go on smoother, you can water it down a little. I did this for my third coat because I felt I didn’t need a full thick coat again.

When working with chalk paint, or any kind of paint, I suggest working in the brightest light possible. If you can, bring more light into your work space so your space is as bright as possible. This will accentuate any dripping or streaking which will help if your piece will be in a room with lots of light.

Step 4 – Waxing In Circles

Waxing is actually a piece of cake. If you are good at cleaning, then you’ll be great at wiping on this wax.

Use two rags – you can split your old t-shirt into pieces, and put one rag in each hand. With one rag you are going to wipe the wax on, and with the other, you are going to polish.
Start with a small amount of wax (half of the size of a dime) – less is more. Start rubbing it on in circles, like the way you rub lotion into your skin. Work your way across the furniture rubbing in circles.
Immediately after, using the second rag, work your way across the piece also rubbing in circles. As you buff, you will start to notice the surface becoming very shiny. This is the look you want! You want to polish in circular motions until it is nice and shiny. Once it’s shiny, move to the next area.

Quick Tip: I would use different rags for the top than the rest of the piece in case there is any bleeding from the paint onto the rags.

Also, you could wax the gray chalk painted top after the top dries in Step 2, instead of waiting until the piece is done. I did this, so I got used to the whole chalk paint process from start to finish, before doing the whole piece.

Chalk Paint Finishing Touches

Last, I replaced the knob on the chalk painted nightstand. Home Depot, Lowes, and Hobby Lobby are all good choices for knobs. This knob I had on my telephone table, but I didn’t love it there – but it looks great on this chalk painted nightstand!

I finished this nightstand within 24 hours I believe – as I kept moving as soon as each coat dried.

It was definitely my best turnaround time on refinishing furniture. When you take away the sanding, priming, and all that dry time, it really speeds up a project.

I loved working with chalk paint, and the results are just amazing. It simply doesn’t look like the same piece. And, the chalk paint process is really easy.

Even my dad’s jaw dropped when I showed him the before and after! He usually only gets impressed with Ash’s projects 🙂

Also, I have a ton of leftover paint. I went through about 1/8 of the quart of white and barely touched the gray chalk paint.

Our old piano is going to be my next chalk paint project – I can’t wait to see how it will look.

Stayed tuned (ha ha pun intended!).

How to Build Floor-To-Ceiling Bookshelves (With a Window Seat)

November 22, 2016 by Ash 74 Comments

How to Build Floor-To-Ceiling Bookshelves (With a Window Seat) Post Preview: Learn how to make built-in bookshelves with a window seat and cabinets below. The tutorial is simple-to-follow, and the bookshelves turn out beautiful.

Ever since building my first bookshelf in our first home, I’ve had a hankering ever since to do another one but on a much more grand scale.

My wish came true when Eileen came to me one day with some ideas for her office in our new home. An exciting project was brewing!

Since we didn’t have any large bookshelves in our present home, most of the books we packed up during our move were still in boxes. I’m talking cartons and cartons of books.

They were taking up a lot of valuable space in various locations around the house. So bookshelves were sorely needed.

Initially we were leaning towards a large L-shaped bookshelf in the office. Then Eileen had a great idea of placing the bookshelf against the window wall and incorporating a window seat.

The office window wall was very bland and not very exciting to look at. It was almost begging for a renovation.

Although it would provide a little less shelf storage than our initial L-shaped shelf idea, it would still be more than enough for all our books.

Also, the window seat would provide a little extra underneath cabinet storage, which is a pretty cool feature.

Planning the Built-In Bookshelves with a Window Seat

The project was essentially going to be two separate built-in bookshelves (on each side of the window) with a seat connecting the two in the middle. The seat would be sitting atop some wide kitchen cabinets for extra storage.

Above the window was just enough space for a single small shelf to store decorative items or horizontal books. Finally, some baseboard would run along the bottom, and some crown molding at the top.

Some designs I saw online used a standard shelf depth (around 12”) with the seat extending out further.

Eileen didn’t want a protruding edge, and she has the eye for design. So to prevent this, the depth of the seat had to be the same as the bookshelves.

Due to a closet opening on a perpendicular wall, I was restricted to a maximum depth of 15”. I was a little worried that this would not be enough depth to sit comfortably on, but a few trial sittings on 15” planks of wood proved to be acceptable.

This also meant deeper than normal shelves, but I wasn’t too concerned. I’m sure any extra space behind some books could be put to good use.

As with most of my projects, I started off in TinkerCad to sketch out a 3D design of what was floating around in my head. I came up with the following:

Determining Materials

With the design for built-in bookshelves flushed out, I was ready to begin.

I strongly considered using melamine covered particle board for the shelves, but instead opted for some good quality birch plywood.

Although the birch was a little more expensive, I wasn’t comfortable embarking on a project this size using melamine – a material I have never really worked with before.

Also I wanted to use a stronger material than melamine covered particleboard.

Next, I used a drawing program on my computer (Photoshop) to calculate the minimum number of 4 x 8 sheets of plywood needed to cut out all the required bookshelf pieces.

I then placed a Home Depot delivery order for all the bookshelf lumber (including some 2 x 4s and 2 x 6s for various segments in the design, baseboard, and crown molding for the trim and some miscellaneous hardware).

Here is the diagram I made in Photoshop to calculate the number of 4 x 8 plywood sheets needed:

Constructing the Built-In Bookshelves

When the bookshelf wood arrived, I quickly cut the plywood sheets into 15” wide strips using my circular saw and stored them for use shortly.

With all the materials on hand, I started the project.

Removing Carpeting

The first step was to remove the carpeting where the bookshelf would rest.

For a flat platform to build on, it needed to sit directly on the floor plywood sheathing. I accomplished this with the help of my utility knife and a metal ruler to help guide the cuts.

Then I removed some existing baseboard trim so the bookshelf could sit flush against the wall. The use of my oscillating multi tool helped out here to remove just enough baseboard, leaving the rest intact, so that the bookshelf would seamlessly blend in.

Here’s a picture showing me making progress on prepping the floor. I had to be extra careful removing the carpet tacking strips at the edges, as they were riddled with rusty looking nails:

Building the Foundation

Once all the bare plywood flooring was exposed and baseboard removed, I started work on the foundation for the two end bookshelf segments.

They would rest directly on the bare floor. I assembled the frames from 2 x 6 wood.

Here’s a picture of the completed frames:

While constructing the frames in the garage, the corners needed to be very square.

I didn’t have a 90 degree clamp at the time to assist, so using a scrap piece of 2 x 4 and two handy bar clamps, I got creative.

As seen in the picture below, I was able to lock in place two perpendicular pieces of wood allowing me to fasten them accurately with screws:

Here’s a picture of one of the frames in position resting on the bare floor (notice how I carved some grooves underneath to allow a coaxial cable to run through):

Relocating the Air Vent

I left the middle foundation frame (that the seat would rest on) for last as it would be a little trickier than the others.

There was a central air vent on the floor where this middle frame was going to sit, and so I had to redirect the airflow. After brainstorming various ideas on accomplishing this task,

I settled on a very simple yet effective method. I was just going to build a wooden duct into the foundation frame, and seal the inside edges with caulk to make it air tight.

Here is a picture of the end result (a louvred vent would be inserted into the front hole, which I cut out with my trusty jigsaw):

Here’s a picture after I caulked the wooden duct:

Securing the Foundation Frames to the Wall

Once the foundation frames were complete, I secured them in place. I used some lag bolts to attach the rear of the frames to some wall studs.

Then I used some L brackets to secure the front to the plywood flooring.

Here is a picture showing some L brackets in action:

You might have noticed a number of pocket holes in my construction. They are very convenient for attaching wood perpendicular to another one, especially in tight or not easily accessible areas.

With the help of a jig (I use the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig), they are very easy to make.

Here is a picture of one of the pocket holes up close:

Above the middle foundation frame, I also started building up the seat supports and cabinet housing, as seen in the picture below:

Helpful Tip: Here’s a useful trick I used while making the foundation frames. I had made a few alignment errors on the first frame, and so had to unscrew a few pieces and adjust.

Some wooden toothpicks came in very handy to plug the existing screw holes so that I could re-screw very near to those holes.

I simply stuck the toothpicks in the holes and broke off the protruding pieces. Here’s a picture of me ‘toothpicking’ the holes (all we had were party toothpicks, hence the bright colors):

Constructing the Shelves

With the foundation frames in place, I decided to start work on the shelves.

Making Dado Grooves

I was going to use the same technique as my first bookshelf I built in our old home – dado grooves to support the shelves, cut with a standard plunge router.

To start, I placed 2 of the bookshelf vertical end supports side by side, clamped them together tightly, and marked with a pencil where all the dados were to be cut.

Then using some scrap wood, I built a simple jig for my router to speed up the cutting and make all the dados identical.

Here are some pictures showing the the jig and the router in action.

With the help of the jig, cutting the dados was pretty effortless. Eileen even lent me a hand and cut some of them for me, while I did some other tasks.

Here are what the dados look like after routing:

Attaching the Individual Shelves

After the dados were all cut, I started attaching the individual shelves. To do this, I first applied some construction adhesive to the side of a shelf. Then I inserted it into one of the dado grooves.

Then while using some right angled clamps to hold the shelf in place (I decided to buy some to assist with this project), I fastened 3 deck screws from the other side to complete the task.

Here is a picture showing a shelf being attached:

Only the inner shelves used dado grooves. The top and bottom shelves were attached with just adhesive and screws.

Here is what it looked like with all the inner shelves attached:

Next, I applied more adhesive to the attached shelves, and dropped on the remaining dadoed vertical support.

Each shelf had to be adjusted so they fit perfectly into the dado grooves. Screws were also inserted to secure the connections.

Finally, I ran a 2×4 wood by the top shelf to serve as a mounting point for securing the bookshelf to the wall.

Priming and Painting the Bookshelves

To complete this bookshelf, I put on 2 coats of primer, and then 2 coats of a special urethane acrylic cabinet paint. I was worried about regular paint sticking to the books after sitting for some time, so I opted for this hard protective cabinet paint.

Then, with the help of Eileen, we carried the bookshelf upstairs and set it in place. Getting the shelf upstairs was no easy task, by the way.

I knew ahead of time that it was going to be a tight fit, but not impossible.

Here’s a picture of the shelf leaning, while we figured out just how to get it through the doorway.

The other bookshelf on the opposite side is actually slightly longer than this first one (due to the window not being perfectly centered on the wall). So we knew ahead of time that the second bookshelf would definitely not fit in our stairway and would have to be constructed upstairs in the bedroom.

Attaching the Shelf to the Foundation Frame

Using some deck screws, I attached the bottom shelf directly to the foundation frame. The left side of the shelf (touching the wall) was secured directly to some wall studs.

Finally, I secured the 2×4 cross piece at the top to some wall studs using some lag bolts.

Aside from the 2×4, I had used a countersinking drill bit to make the screw holes in the shelf. This made a clean hole for the screw to be countersunk without damaging the expensive birch plywood. I planned on filling in these holes with wood putty later to hide the screw head completely.

Here’s a picture showing the shelf secured in place:

Building the Second Bookshelf

Now it was time to start work on the second bookshelf that would sit on the right hand side.

As mentioned earlier, it was a few inches longer than the first one and would have to be constructed in the bedroom, rather than in the garage.

I did as much as I could in the garage though. First, I cut all the wood to the required sizes, and routed the dados using my jig. I also painted the individual pieces in the garage as well.

Also, I had to be careful not to get too close to the edges of the shelves with the paint though.

The edges would slide in the dado grooves, and any paint (particularly the urethane acrylic paint) would increase the thickness of the shelves and make this step difficult.

Working between the garage and the upstairs bedroom meant frequent trips up and down the stairs. Many times I would have a handful of tools to juggle.

Then during one of my frequent google search sessions for tool organizing ideas, I came across bucket organizers for tools. I didn’t even know they existed.

What a great way to repurpose the standard bucket. So I purchased one and made my garage/bedroom commute a lot easier.

Here’s a picture of mine:

Next, I transported all the individual shelf pieces upstairs, and started assembly with the help of some saw horses. It was a little more difficult to work in the bedroom due to the limited space, but it was manageable.

After the pieces were put together to assemble the bookshelf, I set it in place using the same steps I went through for the first bookshelf (securing to the wall and to the foundation frame).

Here is a picture of the right bookshelf partially assembled in the bedroom:

Here is a close-up showing the other vertical shelf support prepped with construction adhesive in the dados, ready to be attached to the rest of the shelf:

Both the left and right bookshelves were up at the point, and they were looking great.

Making the Window Seat

So next I started working on the middle portion – the seat and cabinets.

The cabinets were pre-fabricated ones I purchased online from Lowes. I got two of them to mount side-by-side. I just had to assemble them when they arrived.

Here is a picture of one of the cabinets after I assembled it:

To get the cabinets ready for installation, I built a framed housing for each. The I slid the cabinets into the housing, and screwed them in.

The top of the housing would also serve as the supports for the seat.

Here is a picture showing the cabinet housing completed:

Here is a picture showing the installed cabinets, as well as the seat attached with some countersunk screws:

Building the Top Shelf

With the seat and cabinets in place, it was time to install the final shelf above the window and get ready for the trim work.

To start, I ran three 2 x 4’s across the top of the bookshelves (in between the top front of the bookshelves and the ceiling).

Their primary purpose was to provide a nailing surface for the crown molding.

In addition, the middle 2 x 4 (that bridged the two bookshelves at the top) was going to help support the middle shelf that ran above the window.

I didn’t use dado grooves for this window shelf. I just used construction adhesive and screws to attach two plywood shelf pieces in between the two end bookshelves.

The top shelf piece also attached to the bridging 2 x 4 above. This window shelf was really long though (the same length as the seat), so to prevent it from drooping in the middle, I added a divider in the center to hold up the bottom shelf to the firmer top shelf.

Installing Crown Molding and Baseboard

Now it was time to install the crown molding and baseboard.

This was a relatively straight forward step. I had installed crown molding in the kitchen of our previous home, so was familiar with the procedure.

This time around though, I had a table saw, so the install went even easier.

For an easy crown molding install, having an angled surface to nail the trim into place is key.

So I measured the angle of the crown molding (the angle it would make with the wall), and ripped some 2 x 4s with my table saw to match this angle.

I attached them directly to the 2 x 4s already mounted on top of the bookshelves. Then, I used my finishing nail gun to attach the crown molding.

Here is a close-up of the crown molding:

The baseboard installed even easier. I just cut the pieces to length and secured them in with the nailgun.

The vent opening on the floor just needed a small top and bottom piece of the baseboard to blend in.

Here is what the baseboard looked like:

Attaching Trim

With the crown molding and baseboard installed, it was time to attach trim to cover the exposed edges of the plywood.

I couldn’t leave the bookshelves as they were because the plywood edges were very rough to the touch (easily leaving splinters) and were not very nice looking.

To save on costs, I decided to cut my own ¼” thick trim from 2 x 4s using my table saw.

I collected all the measurements I needed to cover all the exposed areas and got to work in the garage cutting the trim.

It worked out fairly well – although there were a number of knots in the wood causing several of the trim to break because they were so thin.

Also, other imperfections in the wood caused a few gouges in the cut trim.

So it definitely wasn’t perfect trim, but considering how cheap it was to make from 2 x 4s, it was worth it.

Besides, after the trim gets installed, I planned on patching up any flaws with wood putty. Then, once painted, the trim would look flawless.

Here is a picture showing the installed trim (I use construction adhesive and my finishing nailer to attach them):

Finishing Touches on Construction

Construction of the window bookshelf was pretty much complete at this point. I did attach some beadboard paneling above the seat with construction adhesive and the finishing nailer.

All that remained now was to fill all the countersunk holes with wood putty, patch and smooth any imperfections in the trim, caulk any small gaps (mostly with the crown molding and baseboard) and then apply paint where necessary.

Painting the Built-In Bookshelves & Wall

Eileen hopped in at this point to take over the painting. She painted all remaining wood – going over the edges, getting the trim, and touching up areas here and here.

She also painted the areas to the right and left of the window (which were currently still the color of the walls). That really made the bookshelf pop.

Here is Eileen hard at work finishing off the project:

Using our New Floor-To-Ceiling Bookshelf with a Window Seat

The project was now finished. Eileen immediately filled up the shelves with all the books we had, freeing up much needed space around the house. She even made a really nice cushion for the seat from scratch.

Here’s a picture of the cushion Eileen made for the window seat:

Here are a few more of the completed built-in bookshelves with a window seat.

The total cost of the built-in bookshelves project was around $600 and took me a few weeks to complete. It was a lot of fun to work on, and the payoff was huge.

It’s such a great addition to our home, and Eileen has a place that she loves for all of her books – it’s definitely her dream room now. Who wouldn’t want an entire wall of with floor-to-ceiling built-in bookshelves?!

To complete Eileen’s office, which is a sitting room off our bedroom, it needs some kind of doors. We are thinking about French doors or barn doors. What do you think?!

Make These Picture Ledges for Under $10

October 29, 2016 by Ash 59 Comments

Do you have a bunch of picture frames lying around and a couple hours of time on your hands? Make a DIY picture frame ledge. It’s simple to make, easy to arrange, and looks quite elegant.

Since our move, we still have boxes of pictures frames taking up way too much of our closet space. However, we are one ample box lighter, due to the awesome picture ledge that Ash made.

As I was digging through the box that held the white, cream, and grayish frames, I thought about a gallery. However, I already had one on a neighboring wall, so I wanted something different for this collection of pictures.

That being said, one of Ash’s least favorite chores is hanging pictures up on our walls. You should hear how he tries to procrastinate the task, let alone see his expression when he languidly follows me around the house with a hammer and nails.

And, he definitely does not enjoy when I ask him to hold the picture up to the wall, as I direct from across the room saying, “A little bit left, nope too much….” With my indecisiveness, that goes on for a little too long before I usually end up putting the picture somewhere else.

For these reasons, I knew Ash would love the idea of not having to hang any of the picture frames in this hefty box and instead have the pictures rest on a DIY picture frame ledge.

Would you know he had both photo ledges built in a couple hours?

He used all scrap wood, and then I painted with furniture paint for a nice finish.

The best part?

You can make them too for under $10!

How to Make DIY Picture Frame Ledges

Here are Ash’s instructions on how he built these simple photo ledges.

I came up with a very simple design for the DIY picture frame ledge. Here is an exploded 3D diagram that I created in TinkerCAD to show how the pieces came together:

I was able to use all scrap wood left over from previous projects. I cut the long pieces to the appropriate length. Eileen used the length of the love seat as a basis for how long she wanted the shelves.

Then, I formed the triangle support ends with my miter saw (this is one of my favorite tools – check out my other favorites).

After that, using some wood glue, clamps, and finishing nails, I attached the pieces to each other. Once the wood glue dried, I used the orbital sander to smooth down all the surfaces to make the different wood segments blend into each other seamlessly.

Since it was scrap wood, there were a few gouges here and there that I patched with wood filler and sanded down to a smooth surface.

Finally, my painter, aka Eileen, gave the shelves two coats of paint, and then it was ready to be mounted to the wall.

In mounting, I secured the shelves to the wall using two lag bolts, directly into two wall studs. The heads of the bolts stood out slightly, so to help blend them in, I covered them with some white paint to match the shelves.

Looking back, if I had some Forstner bits at the time, I would have countersunk the lag bolt heads to make them flush with the wood surface.

The cost of the project was free, as we had all of the material in our garage; however, I estimate the project costing $10 for the wood plus a quart of paint.

Our New DIY Picture Frame Ledge

I loved the way the picture shelves turned out. Ash built them so quickly, and without any trips to the store for additional materials, which is always a plus!

I think it took me longer to arrange the pictures than it did for Ash to construct them. (I’m super slow at arranging things…)

Everyone who visits has been commenting on how much they like them. A few people have said, “Have these always been here?” That is one of my favorite comments because it goes to show how great they look where they are.

Not to mention, Ash was so pleased that we didn’t have to hang all those frames. I haven’t told him we still have two more boxes of pictures in the closet. I’m not quite sure where they are going either. Maybe another picture ledge will be forthcoming.

Here’s another angle of our new DIY picture frame ledge. The more I look at it, the more I love it – and it was a lot easier than creating a gallery, and unlike the gallery, I can easily rearrange the picture frames too.

Shelving projects are one of my favorites – I just love different ways you can display pictures, books, and other items. I’m sure we will have more shelving projects coming soon.

Converting a CD Tower into a Pantry Shelf

October 15, 2016 by Ash 46 Comments

When we moved into our new home, we found an old, tall tower style CD holder shelf that the previous owners had left.

It was supposed to be screwed into the wall, but the screws were loose.

Seeing it as a hazard, Eileen wanted to remove it and toss it, but I had a feeling that we could repurpose it one day into something more useful.

So off it went into the corner of the garage where it sat for almost a year.

As the months went by, I was starting to regret my decision of keeping the tower because it was always getting in my way when working in the garage.

Then, one day as I was looking for some cashews in the pantry, I noticed something very interesting.

One side of the pantry had an extra thick wall. It was actually twice the thickness of a regular wall. How unusual, I thought.

My mind immediate jumped to storage.

If there was empty space in that wall, it could open up the doors for all sorts of pantry storage ideas.

Ever since I built a sliding spice shelf in our previous home (in between the fridge and the wall), I had been eager to come up with something similar for our new home.

The pantry was getting difficult to navigate with all our spices, and we could never find anything we needed. Unfortunately, there was no decent space to build the equivalent, so I needed other options for spice storage.

This thick wall was the perfect solution to our pantry storage shortage.

Planning for Extra Pantry Storage

First, I needed to assess the wall situation better.

I needed to know how much space was available inside this wall. For all I knew, it could have been thick to accommodate a central air duct.

I did some knocking on the wall and it sounded very hollow.

Still, I needed to know what was inside before unnecessarily ripping off a large chunk of drywall just to find the area impractical for use.

Using an Endoscope Camera

I took to the Internet and purchased a very cheap endoscope camera for my computer.

The endoscope would provide eyes into the wall and allow me peer around without causing too much damage.

When it arrived, I hooked it up to my laptop, tested it out a bit to get a feel for it.

Pictured below is the endoscope camera, which plugs into the computer via USB.

To give you an example of the detail it gives, I placed the camera inside my son’s fire engine, and displayed on the computer screen is a very detailed profile of the driver.

After testing it out, I then stuck it into a very small hole I drilled into the wall.

The camera had an adjustable light, so I could see inside the dark wall.

I looked up and down, and all around, and the endoscope revealed what I suspected all along – a lot of empty space!

Determining How to Use the Space

Now that I knew what type of space I was dealing with, I had to brainstorm the best way to make use of it.

It was a tall vertical space, so I was thinking along the lines of a vertical shelf to hold spices. That would certainly help with storage.

I went off into the garage to plan out designs for a custom-built shelf to fit the area.

In the garage, I saw some scrap wood resting in the corner that could be turned into shelf pieces, but once again, that tall tower style CD shelf was in the way.

The CD shelf was really starting to test my patience.

I was about to finally toss it out when I had a eureka moment. You know, that CD shelf looked very similar in size to the space that I discovered lurking in the pantry walls.

I anxiously took out my tape measure and did an exact comparison.

The shelf would indeed fit into the wall!

Good thing we did not throw out the CD shelf (more reason for Eileen to start accepting my hoard-ish ways).

It seemed like the perfect solution for spice storage.

It was not very deep, so it wouldn’t hold large cans or boxes, but would easily hold spices and baking materials, which was exactly what we needed.

Installing the CD Tower

Excited about repurposing the CD tower into a pantry shelf, I couldn’t wait to get started. I love being able to repurpose some of the junk I keep around. It’s my justification for keeping everything. And, we really needed the pantry storage. I was tired of rooting through baskets of spices.

Preparing the CD Tower

I could have used the shelf unaltered, but I decided to make it a little shorter for the pantry.

The full height would have sent it nearly to the ceiling, which would made it a little impractical for pantry storage that high.

Cutting into the Drywall

After the shelf was shortened, I needed to cut the hole in the drywall.

I first used a pencil and ruler to outline the exact cutout on the wall. Then I used a special drywall handsaw (commonly called a jab saw) to cut out the hole.

It was a little messy working with the drywall, so I kept my shop vac close by.

After the hole was made, I inserted the shelf into the wall to get a feel for how it would look.

It looked amazing! I couldn’t wait for Eileen to see.

Affixing the Shelf

Now I needed to permanently affix the shelf.

The shelf was not resting directly on the floor inside the wall (it was a few inches above the baseboard), so first I had to attach a 2 x 4 cross piece to rest the shelf on.

I used my Kreg pockethole jig and some pockethole screws to attach both ends of a short 2 x 4 to the wall studs.

I repeated the process to attach another cross piece above the shelf to secure the top.

Then I slid the shelf in between the upper and lower 2 x 4 supports and attached the shelf permanently using some screws.

Applying the Trim

All that was left now was to apply some trim.

I actually had a lot of extra trim left over from redoing some kitchen baseboard a few months prior.

The trim I had originally purchased was too tall for the kitchen, so I had cut it shorter using my table saw. Good thing I held onto the cutoffs.

They were the perfect size to use as trim for the new pantry shelf.

It was already painted too. I secured the trim directly to the shelf using some finishing nails.

Finishing Touches

I adjusted the heights of the individual shelves to accommodate a variety of spice configurations, and then the pantry shelf project was complete.

I loaded it up with all my spices and our baking materials, which freed up so much space in the pantry. It truly was such a perfect pantry storage solution.

This was one of the more simple projects I’ve done recently for such a big reward. I completed the project in a few hours, and best of all, it was free! If you are looking for pantry storage ideas, think outside of the box. You never know what you’ll come up with:)

I’m hoping to repurpose more of my stashed finds in the near future.

12 Must-Have Tools for Every DIYer

September 25, 2016 by Ash 3 Comments

I was sitting in my garage recently looking at my collection of tools on the pegboard, and was thinking how much I take them for granted a lot.

When working on projects, I don’t think twice about the tools. They are just sitting there waiting for use. I grab one as the task requires, and it gets the job done.

So an ode to my under-appreciated tools, I put together a list of the most used tools in my garage.

If you’re a budding DIY’er just getting your feet wet in the home improvement field, you should aim to acquire these tools as the need for them arises.

You could get them all at once, but that’s a pretty large investment, and a lot of the tools would probably just sit abandoned longing for usage.

Remember, as your skills improve, and projects under your belt accrue, so will your tool collection grow. Also, I didn’t include obvious ones like a hammer, screwdrivers or socket spanners.

So without further ado, here are 12 must-have tools for DIYers.

1. Cordless Drill

My drill is the most used tool in the garage. It’s such a versatile tool. It’s functionality goes far beyond just making holes with drill bits.

I use screwdriver bits to work with screws. I use a socket adapter to work with hex bolts.

When dealing with odd angles, I can use a right angle adapter to perform 90 degree drilling. With a paddle adapter, I can mix paint or grout.

Just recently, I discovered I can pump liquids with a drill pump adapter.

With so many different types of drill adapters out there, my personal collection is barely scratching the market, so I’m always on the lookout for cool ones.

My reliance on drill bit adapters encouraged me to even purchase a second drill.

It takes time to swap out drill bits or adapters, and it was starting to become an inconvenience when working with multiple ones at a time.

So tasks like drilling pilot holes for screws, and actually screwing in the screws was simplified to just a task of picking up the first drill, then picking up the second drill.

I even got extra batteries so that I could replace a dead one immediately.

These time-saving expenses improved my project efficiency tenfold.

So it’s a no-brainer why the handy drill is first on my list.

Some of the projects I used the cordless drill on are constructing the sliding garage shelves, creating a boxing speed bag station, and installing tile backsplash.

2. Miter saw

I originally purchased my miter saw for cutting the angles needed for a crown molding project I did a few years ago.

It turned out that this was just the tip of the iceberg of functionality that the miter saw could do for me.

Prior to the jawhorse, cutting wood meant breaking out the hand saw. I would rest the wood on whatever was nearby, and either stand on the wood or hold it firmly with the other hand.

If I had the Jawhorse setup, I would just clamp it down and make the cut.

Now I’m always up for a good workout, but making cuts by hand takes time. The cuts are also notorious for being inaccurate because it’s hard to cut perfectly vertical by hand.

The miter saw changed all that. I just put the wood in position, pull the trigger, press down the saw, and a perfect cut is made every time.

The miter saw also allowed me to do something I couldn’t do before – quickly prototype ideas.

A few of the projects I used the miter saw on are building the outdoor storage shed, the wagon for mower, and the water-saving rain barrel.

3. Wood clamps

For many years I got by without wood clamps. I did not know what I was missing out on.

Then one day I had to borrow a bar clamp from my neighbor to hold down some warped wood while I nailed it in place. I was hooked.

I could not have done that task without a clamp, and many projects since then have been aided dramatically with the use of wood clamps.

Clamps come in all types and sizes, from small C clamps to really long bar clamps, and everything in between.

I now have a variety of these clamps, including some specialty ones too – 90 degree clamps (when you need to hold two pieces of wood perpendicular to each other, like when building bookshelves) and face clamps (for holding two pieces of wood flush with each other for joining, like when using pocket holes).

Some of the projects I used wood clamps on are building my folding workbench, creating French cleat box shelves, and making an outdoor picnic table.

4. Table saw

The table saw has really brought by workmanship up a notch.

I bought mine out of necessity when I hit a snag building my storage shed.

I needed to make some long precise cuts that were too difficult to accomplish using my circular saw or by hand saw.

Being one of the more costly tools I own, I had delayed in getting a table saw for the longest time.

Now that I have one, I have never regretted the investment. I use it for everything from cutting T-11 siding to turning scrap plywood pieces into French cleat shelves.

It’s such a versatile and precise tool, even the neighbors (and the neighbors grown children) are coming to me for help!

As for accessories, I purchased an awesome featherboard to help guide my cuts (a lot of people usually build their own, but I needed one right away for a project and didn’t have the time to make one – plus the purchased one is much more flexible than one I could have built).

I also plan on getting some dado blades in the near future to quickly notch wood and cut grooves.

I used the table saw on many of projects including, the outdoor storage shed, the custom mailbox post, and the wagon for mower.

5. Random orbital sander

When you work with wood, you’ll come to appreciate a good sander.

There are lots of different types of sanders out there. Yet, for a DIYer, you can’t beat a random orbital sander. I purchased mine several years ago to help Eileen refinish an old wooden coffee table.

Prior to that, I had a little mouse sander, and that definitely wasn’t up to the task of stripping the whole table down to bare wood.

I was amazed at what a good job the orbital sander did. In no time at all, the wood was exposed.

I did have to use the mouse sander to get into the small, hard to reach areas, but that’s the purpose of a mouse sander.

These days I use the orbital sander for almost every sanding task at hand.

I just pick out the appropriate grit sandpaper for the job, fire up the orbital sander, and smooth wood is just moments away.

Some of the projects I used the random orbital sander on are the folding workbench, wagon for mower and outdoor storage shed.

6. Plunge Router

I purchased a plunge router a long time ago to help with cutting dado grooves for building a bookcase.

It did an excellent job.

Then it sat dormant for a long time until I started experimenting with bits other than straight cut bits. Now I find myself using the plunge router so much at the end of projects.

It really turns a good looking project into a WOW project.

Specifically, I’m using round-over bits to make nice beveled edges for my woodworking projects.

I built a picnic table the other day and didn’t want people getting splinters from the edges. So, I used the round-over bit to make a nice smooth profile.

Most recently, I made a very professional edge for my folding workbench with another version of the bit.

I’m excited to try out different types of routing bits in the near future and hone my routing skills.

I used the plunge router when I built a wall mounted bookcase and when I created my folding workbench.

7. Oscillating Multi-Tool

This is another recent addition to my tool collection.

I was working on a project the other day and needed to make sure really awkward cuts in a small space.

Realizing I didn’t have the tools to accomplish this easily, an opportunity arose to purchase an oscillating multi-tool.

I’ll admit that I didn’t know much about these tools at the time, but I was fairly sure it could accomplish the task at hand.

After some research, I bought a cordless version and it did exactly what I had expected it to do. I didn’t think I would be using it much more after that, but I was wrong.

I find myself grabbing this oscillating tool off the wall so many times to do cuts or to perform some sanding when I don’t feel the need to set up a larger tool.

It is sort of a hybrid between my compact circular saw and my electric sander.

A few projects I used the oscillating multi-tool on are the folding workbench, the sliding spice rack and an outdoor picnic table.

8. Wet/Dry Shop Vac

You would think that a shop vac was one of the first tools I got.

In actuality, I just purchased my first shop vac about a year ago. I can’t believe it took this long to appreciate the cleaning power of a good shop vac.

I had gotten used to saw dust being everywhere, and the floor of my garage looking like a mess.

With the shop vac, now everything is dust-free and my garage floor is always spotless.

After every wood cutting session, I start up the shop vac. In no time at all is the sawdust gone.

What I love most about the shop vac is that it picks up anything, including nails and screws. I didn’t know this before (any probably why I only just recently got a shop vac).

Now I don’t have to worry about parking the car in the garage and driving over sharp debris left over from past projects.

The shop vac makes certain that everything is removed from the floor.

9. Dremel

Every garage workshop owner should have a dremel and a host of accessory bits.

Not only is it great at precise woodworking cuts, but makes metalworking a feasible task for me.

I originally purchased a dremel to help me cut a hole in the side of my metal computer case. (I had bought an incredibly oversized processor cooler that was too large to fit inside the case. So, I need to punch a hole for it to stick out.)

I was a little nervous at first working with metal, and the sparks flying off the fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheels wasn’t helping, but it got the job done to a perfection.

In no time was a great looking square hole in this thick metal sheet, and my computer could now happily exhaust its heat.

Since then, I’ve never looked at metal as a barrier for me.

In fact, I recently bought some overhead garage shelving, and unfortunately, some of the assembly holes didn’t line up, so some bolts couldn’t fit all the way through. Without the dremel, I may have had to return it.

However, I used a tungsten carbide cutter bit and expanded the hole just enough to make it work. The dremel also works great for sharpening my mower blades too.

A couple of projects I used the dremel on when I was fixing up the mower and when I built my folding workbench.

10. Circular Saw (and compact version)

This is a staple tool of most garages.

I love waking up in the morning to neighbors whirring their circular saws as they are hard at work making sawdust. It’s one of the first power tools I purchased and has seen many hours in the field.

I use it for everything from ripping plywood sheets to cutting out lap joint grooves.

Most recently though, I acquired a compact circular saw and it’s a dream to use.

The downside of a regular circular saw is that it is heavy and bulky, and so hard to use in tight spaces or above your shoulders. They are also very tricky to do small precise cuts.

The compact version solves all of this.

It makes small cuts a breeze to handle, and can fit almost anywhere to perform the cuts. I originally purchased the compact circular saw to cut out window holes for my shed.

I tried using a regular circular saw, but quickly gave up because it felt really dangerous holding the behemoth over my head.

Now I use the compact one almost anytime I need to cut wood.

I love the convenience and precision it gives me.

It does have a very limited cutting depth though (little over an inch), and is not as powerful as a regular circular saw. So I still rely on the regular one for certain jobs.

I used the circular saw on many of my projects, including the outdoor storage shed and a custom mailbox post.

11. Power planer

These were introduced to me a few years back, and what an amazing tool they are.

I didn’t know they existed, as I had a regular hand planer, but it didn’t get much use. I was never really good at the technique and could not seem to get the blade sharp enough to be useful.

Then my neighbor lent me his power planer one day to help me shave down the tops of my closet doors so they would close properly.

In a few quick swipes, I trimmed a small layer off the tops of my doors. After that, they no longer jammed.

For years these doors never closed properly, and now they were fixed in minutes.

So I ended up buying my own power planer later on.

Not only do all the doors in my home close properly now, but I’ve used it in so many projects where I needed to level wood that wasn’t lining up right.

12. Finishing nail gun

My finishing nail gun was the most recent tool I acquired for my collection.

It was up there price wise along with the table saw, so it was an investment. However, it’s the crowning jewel of my collection.

You know you’re an accomplished DIYer the day you buy your first finishing nail gun.

I don’t use it as much as the drill, per say, but when I do use it, it’s such a convenient and efficient tool. It makes you want to keep going and going and get your project done.

I did a lot of research prior to purchasing the nail gun, and eventually settled on a 16-gauge version.

This thickness nail would be applicable to a much larger range of projects than other gauge nail guns could do. I originally purchased it to help install some crown molding.

Since then, I have used it for help in so many projects.

In just one weeknight, I built a variety of box shelves for the garage using the nail gun (with the help of construction adhesive and scrap plywood).

It would have taken me much longer using regular finishing nails and a hammer.

Just the other day too, I was erecting a 6×6 wooden post in concrete. I used the nail gun to temporarily attach some wooden supports to keep the post level.

I look forward to any opportunity I get to use to my finishing nail gun.

Also, I used the finishing nail gun on a couple of projects lately, including the French cleat box shelves and a shade sail.

Final Notes

I have plenty other tools (like my framing nail gun and jigsaw). However, this list of tools shines a light on what your average DIYer should aim to eventually have in their garage – the must-have tools for DIYers.

However, I do have a wishlist of tools that I would love to add to my collection. Things like a reciprocating saw, drill press, and sliding compound saw.

I’ll get those eventually as the need arises for them, and maybe they will have an impact on my list of most used tools.

Used tools?

On a final note about purchasing tools, there is nothing wrong with getting them used.

A little cosmetic damage is not a big deal, just make sure the tool still functions properly. Also, sometimes you’ll have to do a little bit of cleaning to restore used tools to optimal functionality.

A year ago, I had purchased a used Paslode framing nail gun on eBay for around $100. It retails new for more than double that.

The nails started to jam after a few days of usage. So, I bought a cheap cleaning kit. I took apart the tool and cleaned it internally with a special spray from the kit. It now fires nails like a brand new gun.

Anyway, all this tool talk has certainly gotten me in the mood to make some sawdust, so off I go into the garage.

Six DIY Weekend Projects That You Will Love

September 19, 2016 by Eileen Leave a Comment

With the cooler weather coming in, it’s the perfect time for weekend DIY projects. There’s something about the crisp, clean air that motivates me to accomplish more.

If you are anything like us, you are probably looking to get a few fall projects under your belt too.

The best projects are weekend ones, as I also love a project that only spans two days!

Plus, you can start and finish something amazing before the Monday morning blues set in.

From garage storage to backyard updates to kitchen upgrades, we are sharing quite a few home projects that only span a couple of days.

My personal favorite is the outdoor picnic table – it turned out so beautiful and we saved hundreds!

So, without further ado, here are six projects that you can complete over the course of the weekend.

1. Outdoor Picnic Table

Ash built this picnic table in just one day!

Imagine my surprise and delight:)

It was simple to make, and the results were beautiful. We especially love the composite decking on the tabletop and the seats, as it involved no staining or sealing – and provides a nice safe material to have meals on.

As for cost, this was a steal ($160!) compared to the cost of this type of outdoor furniture at the landscaping and home improvement stores, and it looks just as wonderful. It was definitely one of our favorite weekend DIY projects.

For a step-by-step tutorial, read Building a Picnic Table in One Day.

2. French Door Pantry

In our old house, we had an eyesore of a pantry.

It was nothing more than a nook of shelves with drawn curtains. It was nothing short of awful.

In sprucing up our house for our move, I was looking for ways to make our kitchen look less dated, without updating the counters and cabinets.

The idea of putting French doors then hit me. Ash agreed – he loves my design decisions…:)

We found a reasonable pair, installed them, and painted them white.

I couldn’t have been happier to see those awful curtains go – it was definitely a rags to riches moment!

It took a mere weekend of work, and I’m sure the nice folks who bought our house are enjoying them.

Check out the before and after along, with all the nitty gritty details in From Rags to Riches: Updating the Pantry.

3. Folding Workbench

Building a Folding Workbench for a Weekend DIY Project

This project was one of Ash’s favorite weekend DIY projects because he checked an item off his bucket list, as he finally built his own functional workbench.

It’s definitely a fan favorite, as it’s been featured on quite a few sites, including Life Hacker and Make.

In his post Constructing a Folding Workbench with Storage, Ash shares his plans (it’s an Ash original!) and explains not only this thought process, but all the necessary steps for you to build your own.

It only took two days, and Ash has been reaping its benefits ever since!

4. Sliding Garage Shelves

Ash and I are a little storage-obsessed. I’ll admit that I have a little Christmas stuff addiction, although I won’t even admit how many trees I have.

And, Ash, well he never throws anything away.

In his defense, he creates some really cool things from his hoard collection – including a built-in pantry shelf made from a CD shelf.

Thus, we could never have too much storage.

In our garage, we had a 20-foot corner of space between the wall and the fridge, and Ash turned this into 70 feet of space with stacked, slide-out storage shelves.

These shelves are awesome, storing some of our holiday decorations.

The slide-out feature provides easy access to boxes in the back, along with easy steps up to the top.

Not to mention, Ash created bonus shelving with the leftover wood.

If you love storage space as much as we do, check out Creating More Garage Storage.

In just a weekend, you could have yourself your very sliding storage shelves, just in time for the holidays.

5. Wooden Mower Wagon

Build a Utility Cart in Just One Weekend

Inspired by a trip to the strawberry fields, Ash had his mind set on building a trailer for his riding mower.

He figured he could haul yard waste to the curb more easily and even take the family on a few tractor rides.

His vision became a reality with this custom-built wagon.

When he finished the wagon, no one but Zeus was around – so he got the first ride. 🙂

Ash gives all the details, from basic construction to assembling the axles to hooking up the hitch connection in his post How to Build a Wagon for a Riding Mower.

After using it all summer, Ash found it more helpful than he originally thought, and he’ll continue to use it this fall bagging up all of the leaves.

6. Boardwalk Pathway for the Backyard

Thinking about tackling a wooden pathway project? It’s easier than you think. With just a few hours of work, Ash created a perfect path from our patio into the backyard.

Prior to this boardwalk, there was a narrow pathway with a few uneven rocks, so this was quite an upgrade. It took a little digging, but it was completed in a just a weekend – making it a perfect weekend DIY project.

After a year, it gets used each and every day and is holding up great. Looking for a boardwalk solution, read A Wooden Pathway for the Backyard.

All of these weekend DIY projects were tackled in just one weekend.

Make your Monday a little happier next week, knowing you created something awesome during your two day break.

Creative Garage DIYs to Increase Storage Space

September 6, 2016 by Ash 82 Comments

With our garage being my workshop and our primary storage area, it was filled to the brim with tools of all sizes, boxes and boxes of holiday decorations, yard tools and toys, and so much more.

We already did a lot of DIY projects that saved space and created more garage storage. I constructed a folding workbench, which was such an efficient workstation.

In a corner that formerly was a dumping ground of yard tools, I built a sliding shelf tower, which housed all of our holiday decorations. I also had a lot of creative shelves scattered around.

With so many things in our garage, any empty area was prime real estate, no matter how small.

A Hidden Gem

The other day, some wall space caught my eye – the gap between the two garage doors.

Right away I thought that it would be an excellent place for some narrow shelves. Strange that it took me a year to spot the little gem between my garage doors that could provide more garage storage.

Coincidentally, the project I was working on at the time (the built-in bookcase with window seat) produced a lot of scrap birch plywood.

This was expensive stuff – 4×8 sheets sell for $50 at Home Depot. So I wasn’t wasting any cut offs (I was quite inventive in the different ways I reused those scraps).

My shelving idea between the garage doors would be a perfect little project for some of the plywood scraps to get more garage storage.

Planning the Garage Storage Boxes

Simple flat shelves wouldn’t suffice though. With so little space, the shelves would be small, and things could fall off easily.

So instead of shelves, I started visualizing little boxes on the wall. How nice would it be to walk in wearing yard gloves, and have a box to toss them into as soon as I enter the garage?

I took the box idea a step further and considered using French cleats for them.

This would allow each box shelf to be removed by simply lifting it. It would lead to a very modular design where the boxes could be swapped with other ones on the fly.

Rather than digging through a box on the wall to find what I need, or make repeated trips to the wall, why not just take the box shelf with me? Not only would it create more garage storage – but it also would be very efficient.

Now that’s some clever thinking, if I do say so myself.

I came up with this simple box design below:

Here’s another view of the box design, resting on the wall via the French cleats:

Building the French Cleat Storage Boxes

I was excited to get more garage storage from this wasted space – I couldn’t wait to start building. Here’s a TinkerCAD exploded diagram showing in detail how it was constructed:

Constructing the First Garage Storage Box

In the diagram above, the orange piece on the far right is mounted to the wall (to allow the box shelf to drop into and secure to the wall). The rest of the pieces form the box itself.

The wall mounted piece and the other angled cut directly above it (attached to the box) form the French cleat system. I used scrap ¾” birch plywood for the box and French cleats.

For the floor of the box, I used ⅛” thick scrap plywood. I cut all the pieces to size quickly using my table saw, and then miter cut the side pieces for that nice angled profile.

For the French cleat 45 degree lengthwise cuts, I used the table saw again.

Then I used construction adhesive, some bar clamps and my 16 gauge finishing nail gun to assemble the wood pieces into a functional French cleat box shelf.

Technically, I built the first shelf without the nail gun. I just used regular finishing nails and a hammer.

Finishing Nail Gun for the Win

With these types of shelves, the strength comes mostly from the construction adhesive (that stuff is really strong when completely dry). The nails really just hold the pieces in place for the glue to set. So that’s why I used finishing nails.

Also, I didn’t want to risk splitting the plywood scraps, so finishing nails were a good choice due to their thin profile.

As I mentioned earlier, I was in the middle of a bookcase/window seat project at the time. Part of this project involved installing crown molding and baseboard.

I remembered installing crown molding in my previous home, and having an incredibly hard time doing it with finishing nails and a hammer. So, I ended up borrowing my neighbor’s cordless finishing nail gun, and the installation was such a breeze. I just held the crown molding in place, then tap tap tap, and the nails (technically brads) were countersunk, securing the molding to the wall.

So purchasing my own finishing nail gun had long been on my wish list.

I finally bit the bullet and purchased one for my birthday to use on the bookcase project. I also got some angled finishing nails to go along with it.

They arrived in the middle of these French cleat shelves. So the shelves were the perfect opportunity to hone my skills with the gun.

Here’s a picture of me using the finishing nail gun for one of the box shelves:

I originally purchased an 18-gauge finishing nail gun (keep reading to see why I returned it).

Sidenote on Nail Guns

For those not familiar with finishing nail gun terminology, the gauge represents the thickness of the nail. I’m using the word ‘nail’ loosely because these nail guns actually fire brads, which are strips of thick wire with a very fine head.

They are great for finishing applications (like securing trim) because the heads make a very small hole and require little work to conceal. The thinness of the brads also reduce the likelihood of splitting the wood when they are driven in.

Finishing nail guns are not to be confused with framing nail guns, which fire actual nails and use substantially more power to drive them (hence also more dangerous). I used a gas powered framing nail gun in my shed project if you are interested.

Anyway, I was saying earlier how I purchased an 18-gauge finishing nail gun. Unfortunately, I was not having a good experience using it with the birch plywood. Most of the nails would fire in straight, but then bend half way and stick out the side of the wood. It was very annoying.

I did some research online and found out that 18-gauge nails don’t work well in hardwoods (like birch) and will do exactly what they were doing with me (changing direction as they are driven into the hardwood).

So I decided to return the nail gun and get a 16-gauge version instead.

The new nails were noticeablely thicker and worked perfectly for me. The gun is now a permanent addition to my top 12 list of must-have tools.

What’s the best nail gun for a DIYer?

Depending on the type of woodworking project you’re doing, sometimes you’ll need a thinner nail (higher gauge) and sometimes you’ll need a thicker nail (lower gauge).

Unfortunately finishing nail guns can only fire a single gauge, so you’d need multiple guns to accommodate different nail gauges. This is obviously very expensive, and may not make financial sense for you unless you’re a dedicated contractor.

So, 16-gauge is a good compromise because a majority of the projects a typical DIYer works on can be satisfied with that sized nail gauge.

This has held true for me ever since purchasing the nail gun too. I’ve used it for everything from crown molding to shelves to quickly tacking on temporary supports for concreting wooden posts. It’s also my favorite tool, and well-worth the investment.

Finishing Up the Boxes

With the finishing nail gun, construction of 5 box shelves went by very quickly. I only made 5 because I ran out of scrap wood large enough for box shelves. The remaining smaller scraps had another destiny.

Five French cleat boxes were perfectly adequate for the space allocated though and would definitely create more garage storage and organization.

Here’s a picture of the completed French cleat boxes resting on the wall (they are empty below, but filled today will all sorts of goodies):

After this was completed, some of the remaining birch plywood scraps got used for another project.

Get More Garage Storage with These Ideas

I was going finishing nail gun crazy and just wanted to keep tap-tap-tapping brads. So, I ended up making an incredibly useful battery charging station for my cordless tool batteries.

The garage storage station consisted of four L shaped shelves fixed to the wall, with two triangular supports each.

Here’s a picture of the empty shelves on the walls so you can get an idea of the design:

Here’s what the shelves look like actually being used. This little nook helped get more garage storage and organization.

The shelves created more garage storage – enough space for 4+ battery chargers, extra batteries and a host of accessories.

I got creative and tacked on an empty plastic nail box to store stationary-like pencils, markers and scissors.

I’m most proud of my measuring tape holder though. I was always looking for my measuring tape and needed a dedicated location for it, so I mounted a metal strip to one of the shelves, and the measuring tape just clips onto it.

It’s in the perfect location too. Whenever I need a measuring tape, I just open the garage door and grab the tape off the holder. When done, I just snap it back on the holder and it’s there for future use.

Here’s a picture showing my measuring tape holder:

A Lot of Storage for a Little Effort

So that’s it for this round of more garage storage shelving. I constructed five French cleat boxes in the lost space between the double garage doors and added some bonus shelving too. Not only did I create more garage storage but this storage added another level of efficiency to our garage.

I completed everything on a Saturday with no additional cost to me because I used all scrap wood. Although I benefited a great deal from the finishing nail gun I purchased around the same time, it could have been done with just regular finishing nails and a hammer.

Stay tuned for future shelving ideas as inspiration strikes. I hope this article brought you some inspiration to get more garage storage too.

DIY Boxing Speed Bag Station That Stows

August 20, 2016 by Ash 15 Comments

For many years, I’ve been an avid amateur boxer, always looking to have a good sparring match in the ring with whomever is game.

Lately though, it had been hard to make time for the gym, so I wanted to do a lot of my training at home, where it’s more convenient.

I already had a cheap freestanding heavy bag (with the plastic base that you fill up with water – it was less than desirable but it gave me something to work with).

I also have a double ended bag (attached to a ceiling rafter in the basement and to a water filled base on the floor) and a slip bag (maize ball) that I mess around with as well.

Yet, what’s a good boxing workout without some rounds on the speed bag?

I had purchased a cheap speed bag platform many years ago and had it mounted in my previous home.

However, it never got much usage because it was secured to some wall studs that would literally shake things out of my kitchen cupboards on the other side of the wall.

Also, the house was very small and the noise carried everywhere.

Selecting a Speed Bag Location

After moving into our larger home, the question of where and how to mount my speed bag lingered in the back of my mind for a long time.

I really wanted it in the basement with my other boxing equipment, but the ceiling was really low. It would be awkward to hit the speed bag at that height.

Also, remembering back to cereal boxes falling out of the cupboards at my previous home, I was worried about the vibrations travelling up through the ceiling rafters and having repercussions upstairs.

I eventually decided on the garage as the ideal location.

The ceiling was very high, so I could set the speed bag to whatever height I wanted.

There was no second floor above the garage so no foreseeable issues with vibrations affecting things upstairs. Also, the garage insulated sound pretty well.

So as how many of my projects start, I did a lot of staring (at the garage ceiling for inspiration).

Finally it came to me. I would mount some type of contraption close to the center of the garage.

Even with both cars pulled into the garage, there was a center aisle that was open that would be perfect for speed bag workouts.

Determining a Design for the Speed Bag Platform

With the location selected, I had to be conscious of the clearance required for the speed bag platform.

The garage was a busy area for me as it was also my workshop. I did not want to have to keep dodging the speed bag every time I worked on a project in there.

So I thought hard about how I could make a system where the speed bag platform could easily stow away when not in use and be lowered when it was time for a work out.

After messing around in TinkerCAD for a few hours, I came up a design that eventually produced this awesome thing:

Building the Speed Bag Platform

I managed to build it entirely out of scrap wood.

It consists of an upper and lower piece. The top part is a fixed mount attached to the ceiling. The bottom part slides into the top part and allows the speed bag platform to raise or lower.

I used 4 heavy duty bolts, some washers, and some wingnuts to lock the platform into place when in the desired position.

Additionally, I opted for the wingnuts to make them easy to remove. This was rather than using regular nuts and having to use tools to raise/lower.

I also intentionally went a little heavy on the lower piece using some 4 x 4 wood. I wanted to make a solid rebound surface for the speed bag.

Starting with the Lower Piece

I started working on the lower piece first. I cut the 2 x 4s and 4 x 4s to length according to the TinkerCad diagram and connected them together using construction adhesive, 3” deck screws, 3.5” lag bolts and even some 6” TimberLok screws.

Here is the lower piece color coded with TinkerCAD to help explain the order of things:

I built the red part first using 2 pieces of 2 x 4s and 2 pieces of 4 x 4s.

This was followed by the green part (6 pieces of 2x4s).

I connected the green part to the red part using eight 3.5” lag bolts and washers.

Then the blue part (2 pieces of 4 x 4s) was connected to the red/green part using four 6” TimberLok screws.

Here’s a picture of how it all came together. You can probably tell that the 4 x 4s are pressure-treated due to the green tint, but you can’t always pick and choose with scrap wood:

Working on the Upper Piece

The upper part of the contraption is a little simpler.

Made entirely out of 2 x 4s, here is the completed version of it:

The two long 2 x 4s at the top will rest against the ceiling when mounted.

The two dangling vertical pieces serve as guides to facilitate raising/lowering the platform.

They will also have holes that align with holes on the bottom platform. This allows for bolts to lock the two pieces into place.

I used eight 3.5” lag bolts and washers to secure the vertical supports to the long ceiling 2 x 4s.

The upper and lower pieces were now completed.

Here is that they looked like combined (in the contracted/raised position):

Here is what they look like in the expanded/lowered position:

To keep the two pieces in the raised and lowered position, I drilled matching holes (on the four vertical 2 x 4s) in both positions to allow four heavy duty bolts to pass through.

To prevent the lower piece from falling out of the upper piece during a transition period (when all bolts have been removed and I’m raising or lowering the platform), I planned on screwing on two heavy gauge metal plates on the upper piece to catch the lower platform.

Mounting the Top Piece

So to mount the contraption, I had to secure the upper part to the ceiling rafters.

In an effort to reduce damage to the drywall ceiling from vibration (and dampen noise as well), I used ½” thick neoprene rubber sheets in between the 2 x 4s and the ceiling.

I purchased an 8 x 8 square of the rubber and cut it into four 4 x 4 smaller squares.

I drilled a small hole in the middle of each square for the fastener to pass through and placed the sheets in between the ceiling and the 2 x 4s.

For the actual fasteners, I opted to use four 6” TimberLok screws to connect everything to the ceiling rafters.

Here’s a picture of the mount (you can see the neoprene rubber sheets in between the ceiling and the 2 x 4s):

Inserting the Lower Piece

With the upper part mounted very securely to the ceiling, it was now time to insert the lower part.

I placed it into the raised position (highest it could go vertically) and temporarily held it in place with just two bolts.

This was when I screwed on the two metal plates at the bottom to prevent the lower piece from falling out of the upper piece.

Here is a picture showing how the metal plates were installed (you can also see some of the wingnuts from the removable bolts used to re-position the speed bag):

Attaching the Speed Bag

Now that my contraption was mounted securely to the ceiling, it was time to attach the actual speed bag platform.

I just used some lag bolts to secure it.

Here’s a picture from above showing the platform bolted on:

You’ll notice from the picture above that I had to notch the corners of the 4 x 4s. This was so they didn’t protrude beyond the edge of the circular speed bag platform.

Also, the empty square space in the center of the mounting base was intentional.

It allows the speed bag swivel bolts to pass through. It’s also an excellent storage pocket for the removable bolts.

When the speed bag mount is stowed away in the raised position, I don’t need all four bolts in place. So, I just secure two of them and the remaining two get placed in this center square pocket.

Here’s a close-up showing the swivel bolts passing into the empty square hole:

Testing the Speed Bag Station

My garage speed bag project was completed, and I was very satisfied with the results.

I did do some acoustic testing to verify the effectiveness of the neoprene rubber dampeners. I setup my phone to record audio from several key areas of the house and worked the bag as hard and loud as I could.

When I played back the recordings, I could not hear the bag at all. So I was confident that I could now work out whenever I wanted to, and not disturb anyone.

Time and Cost

This project was completed over the weekend for under $40.

I kept the cost really low by using all scrap wood.

My only expenses were the rubber dampeners and some of the fasteners. I already had a speed bag platform and bag, so those cut down costs too.

My platform is really cheap though (I believe I got it at Sears many years ago for $30).

I would like to replace it at some point with a solid piece of wood.

If you get a similar platform, at least get a decent bag (FYI smaller bag=faster rebounds, larger bag=slower rebounds) and a good swivel hook (not the plastic ball-bearing hook that a lot of cheap platforms come with).

Also, I use sandbags (via a heavy duty training weight bag) on top of the platform to add more solidity to the bag rebounds. It reduces a lot of vibrations as well.

Here’s a picture of me working out on the bag:

Finally, here’s a video of the speed bag in action: